Category Archives: Kwethluk

Nature

Valuable Slices of Sun

This morning, while I was finishing up my morning cup of coffee, a stray streak of sunlight lit up the middle of Gastineau Channel. Before it died, the sunlight hit a few of the spruce trees growing on the side of Mt. Juneau. I managed to take a few pictures of the sun struck spruce before they all faded back to subtle green. Twenty minutes of unexpected sun is always enough to get a rainforest guy through a stormy day.

            In an hour or so, Aki and I started to enter the Treadwell Woods. Recent rain and above-freezing weather has cleared most of the trails. But a slick slip of ice covered the trail. The little dog and I slipped our way down to Sandy Beach. I expected eagles but saw only ducks, all hunting in shallow water near to the beach edge. 

Irish Tea

Before sifting through today’s photographs, I put the kettle on to boil and drop a bag of Barry’s Irish Breakfast Tea into a mug. Then I start the music from the Chieftains first album playing on the stereo. Aki follows me around the kitchen after the water boils. Something about the smell of Irish tea raises her expectations for treats.

Most Americans wait until St. Pat’s day in March to connect with their Irish roots. They drink more whiskey or beer then, rather than good cups of the Irish tea. This time of year, they prefer coffee drinks laced with peppermint or eggnog. But the Daughters of Mary and Joseph who ruled my grammar sky in Los Angeles, missed their Irish families most in December. They shared their dreams about the joys of Christmas in Cork. Maybe that is why I asked the little poodle mix to walk with me around the little Sheep Creek delta on this late December day.

Small rafts of Mallard ducks were hammering the shallows when we arrive at the delta. At first I took them for scattered rocks. They must be capturing the baby salmon that try to leave fresh for salt water each fall. Even more birds fish in the creek or along the shallow edge of the beach. They don’t care about Aki or I, just about each other. A few gulls even make low surveillance flights over our heads. Suddenly shafts of strong and clear white fill the sky over Gatineau Channel, looking like bright light escaping the room where a good mother just gave birth to a must-loved Christmas child.

Surprising Splashes of Light

The temperature has stayed above freezing for several days and nights. Such a winter let down often occurs when a cold weather snow storm hammers the east coast of the United States. That’s what happened this week. In Juneau, if you drive more than 20 miles north of town, you can often ski there. We did that yesterday even though we had a good chance of being hammered by rain. This morning, the sky was temporality dry. But our weather app was predicting the return of snow. We grabbed Aki and our ski gear and headed out to the Mendenhall Campground. 

            Heaps of soft snow covered the campground. But thanks to work done by the groomers, the ski trail was solid. In fact, it was still icy. Aki’s other owner and I had spent more than 10 years skis cross country skiing down wind-pounded paths in Bush Alaska so today’s Mendenhall path should be a piece of frozen cake. 

            I didn’t expect any decent views of the glacier or its surrounding mountains. But the lower clouds lifted and pulled apart to allow shafts of morning sunshine to light up parts of the ski trail. Clouds would soon bury the sunshine with blankets of grey. For half-an-hour, we could suck up the sunshine.

Gifted by the Storm

If the weatherman hasn’t been fooled by nature, Juneau is about to be snowed in today. Such a prediction can create panic in large Northern cities. Here in the Alaskan rainforest, people just accepts each snow storm as it comes.

            Aki and I don’t need to leave our home neighborhood to find snowy beauty. It hangs like Christmas decorations from every house or spruce tree. The low blanket of snow clouds hide most of Gastineau Channel and all of the mountain ridges. Aki takes every opportunity to read the scent trails. I take advantage of the resulting delay to appreciate the little beauties of mining ruins and rusty cars trimmed with pure, white snow. 

Holiday Snow

This forest is normally a little shelter from the storm, protected by the walls of trees and a thick canopy of spruce needles. Usually, Aki and I can pass through without being soaked. Today, a cold winter storm almost buried tree branches with snow, bending down evergreen limbs. Usually, the minute the temperature rises in the woods, snow sluffs off the tree branches, letting them snap back into place. Not today.

It’s warm enough this morning for the tree to shed last night’s snow. But white stuff still holds on to the smallest branches. I have to duck and dive my way down the trail to the sea. It all becomes more clear when I snatch some snow from a little spruce limb. It holds the same shape it had when attached to the tree branch as I slide it into my thirsty mouth. Last night rain fell and then mixed with the snow. The rain drops froze as they combined with the snow, helping it cling to exposed trees.

Sweet Surprise

The last weather report I read predicted a heavy snow storm. But instead of spending the morning shoveling snow, I mosey around Downtown Juneau hunting for places where the sunshine is burning through heavy fog. It’s a surprising little gift from nature before the snow storm begins a big dump on the state’s capital.

Nature is imposing a price for sharing beauty. Sub-freezing temperatures cover the streets and sidewalks with slick ice. But my boot cleats make it safe to drop down to the Alaska State Museum where sunshine, weakened by thinning fog, is reflected in the in the museum windows. In a few minutes we reach the Egan Expressway, which borders Gastineau Channel. Just this side of the channel, I spot a raven snacking on something tasty. With its back to me, the raven stops eating. It looks down channel where sunlight from the rising sun powers through the clouds.

The sun finally breaks through the clouds as we head back up the hill to home. It casts big, dark shadows onto the snow-covered sidewalk while making the colorful houses on Main Street sparkle.

Slim Stretch of Sun

The sun rose this morning over Gastineau Channel at 8:30 A.M. No clouds hide it. Where not blocked by houses or office buildings, the sunlight made the ice-covered walkways sparkle. Thankfully, I noticed this before leaving the house with Aki. I was wearing ice grippers when we started down the hill towards the channel.  

            The sun hung like a Christmas light above the Douglas Island Mountain Ridge as the little dog and I crossed Egan and headed toward the channel. I wanted to hurry there but Aki refused to rush ahead and fail to check out all the smells. Eventually, we make it to the whale statue just as the sun was about to drop behind the ridge. It was 10:15 A.M. it disappeared.

A Good Snow

“Aki. How long has it. Been since snow whitened our street?” The little dog ignores the question. She’s too busy following a new scented trail. We are heading towards sea level where this time of winter the lights along the cruise ship dock are always burning. 

            There is no wind to confuse the snowflakes. The resulting white cloud softens the abrupt edges of office buildings. It feels like we are trapped in a rich person’s snow globe. 

            The usual cloud of ravens is waiting for us when we arrive on the dock. A few minutes ago, Aki threw on the brakes so I am carrying her in my parka-covered arms. This seems to have upset the ravens, who circle around us a few times before gathering around a snow covered tree. Some seemed to be flirting. Others pouting. One roosts high in the tree to resolve any disputes. 

Winter Gift

Early this morning, while crouching next to our kitchen heater, waiting for the coffee pot to finish its waking magic, a local radio announcer promised listeners a day of wind, rain and snow. 

For three hours I expected first snow, then rain to blur our house windows. But the sun flooded the neighborhood, making spruce trees throw shadows onto the moss-covered roof across the street.  We might just have enough time to walk to the mouth of Fish Creek while the sun still lit up the glacier and mountains rising on the other side of Fritz Cove. 

            This close to the shortest day of the year, much of Douglas Island sits in gray light. But on clear winter days, unblocked sunlight brightens the snow covered mountains on the mainland, making them almost too bright to view from Fish Creek. 

            The little dog and I walk across a creek bridge still slick with winter ice and cruise through a grey forest towards Fritz’s Cove. Normally, I’d be frustrated by the flat, dull light and the lack of birds. I’d be aggravated that we can hear the cries of hidden eagles and another bird of prey but not see them.  But when we reach a spit that offers views of the glacier reflected in the creek waters, the absence or presence of birds no longer seems to matter. 

Aki Doesn’t Forget When it Was Dangerous

“There was a time in this fair land when the railroad did not run
When the wild majestic mountains stood alone against the sun
Long before the white man and long before the wheel…”

Gordon Lightfoot’s Canadian Railroad Trilogy

As Aki and I moved up Basin Road and cross the old wooden road bridge, I feel like we are almost entering wilderness. Behind us, a string of old miner’s homes line the road that in a few minutes would take a hiker past 100-year-old churches to Downtown Juneau. Ahead is a gravel road lined by a deep creek valley on one side and a steep, tree covered slope on the other. Mount Juneau seems to be climbing out of the creek. Two strong streams flow down the mountain side to dump into Gold Creek.

You can barely hear the creek today. Only a raven’s croak breaks the true silence. Years ago, mining trucks hauled gold ore down this wide trail. You wouldn’t be able to hear the trucks over the sound of ore crushers that operating 24 hours a day. Later water blasters reduced the valley to gavel rubble to get the last hidden grains of ore to market. The signs of such attacks on nature are just hidden beneath layers of new growth.

We take a little footbridge across Gold Creek and start downstream on the old flume trail. A channel under the trail still carries water from Gold Creek to a small hydro plant on the edge of the old Native community. Aki throws on the brakes shortly are we head down the flume. Fifteen years ago, she smelled a bear walking up the trail. Even though she has chased many of them away while walking other trails, she froze when she smelled the Gold Creek bear. Each time we start the flume trail I hope she will have a change day and keep moving at me side. But each day, including this one, I have to carry her to the trail’s end. The little poodle still honors that powerful bear.