Category Archives: Aki

seals 1, us 0

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

 

It takes three sets of footwear to make his hike—one pair of street shoes for driving, hiking boots, and rubber ExtaTuffs for trail portions flooded by the beavers. Joined by a friend, Aki and I make our way down a slippery boardwalk trail that dumps us onto a muddy track through old growth woods. We don’t mind the mud. Aki manages to skirt the worst and my rubber boots make me impervious to the stuff.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe glimpse flowering lily pads dotting an arm of the beaver pond just before the trails leads onto a large open meadow, now watched over by an eagle air drying his wings. Again the rubber boots serve me well, now to cross large stretches of flooded trail.

We’ve missed the height of the wild flower bloom but fireweed blooms and stalks of white arctic cotton dominate much of the meadow. Crossing a berm raised across the meadow by a long gone homesteader we find the excavations of the local brown bears (AKA grizzlies) where they have ripped up the meadow in a search for tasty roots. We’re heading for a stream with faint hope to catch some pink salmon. If they are ready to leave salt water for the fresh waters of the birth, the tide hasn’t raised the water level at the stream’s bar high enough to admit the seals, the bears are sleeping, we should catch some fish.

Unfortunately the seals managed to enter the creek waters before us and now splash and slam the water, growl and gurgle bubbles in the stream—all designed to drive the salmon toward their hungry chums. All is not lost. We catch smaller, taster Dollie Varden char and there are the marmots.

We didn’t seen the big gray rodents — think guinea pigs with long lush tails—when we OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAarrived. A menacing gang of eagles held the high ground but yielded on our approach. In seconds four or five marmots took the eagle’s spots on tall rocks. I expected them to dash to safety but they held their ground, feigning disinterest. Have they learned to tolerate our presence because we keep away the eagles? They sure acted like it.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Climbing the Road

P1130143

I hadn’t meant to climb so far and fast up this mountain service road. Aki had animal signs to read and I wanted to study the emerging high country flowers, enjoy surprising mixes of P1130119magenta dwarf fireweed and white daisy, stand of  shooting stars rising above yellow butter cups. Noise drove us on —- in the form of a lecture about a 1960’s US presidential election given by a man to two woman as they kept pace just behind me on the road.  Finding a gear not used for some time I pressed ahead until no human voice could be heard above bird song and the occasional warning whistle of a marmot to it’s younger kin.

Once in gear I moved up without thought, like a Tour de France cyclist climbing in the Alps. Up P1130156we moved until only old wind battered spruce broke the horizon line.  Soon we even rose above them to where carpets of flowering heather cover the ground. I tried leading Aki across snow fields linked by a heavily damaged wood planked trail to a ridge line promising views of Admiralty Island.  Aki loved the snow, sliding and digging in it like a puppy as I struggled to stay upright. We turned around before having to cross a steeply sloped snow field that ended just above a steep drop.

P1130142

Patience Needed Between Storms

P1110033

We find the rain forest trail between downpours. Only one car sits in the trailhead parking lot. In minutes Aki will find it’s occupants, a brace of identical chocolate colored malemutes—great brutes just barely controlled by their owner with stout ropes. After they pass we only share the forest with its occupants.

Perhaps it’s being between storms but Aki and I want to press on rather than stop to watch, maybe see something wonderful in this monopoly of green. While she pees, I do notice rain from the last downpour beading up on plump blueberry leaves; rain from earlier storms soaking into white eagle scat trapped in the leaves’ vein channels. With patience we might see rain wash the scat away, might see a branch above bend with the weight of an arriving eagle, hear the new occupant complain to God of our presence.

P1110045My red jacket, the color of wild columbine flowers, attracts a hovering hummingbird. I could patiently stand here while Aki whined and the red and orange blur might land on my shoulder then poke at the red cloth. I could camp out down at the beaver pond until a lodge occupant swam over to check me for weapons. I could squat on the beach, starring over the grey of sea until humpbacks, maybe two or three, broke the surface to breathe. I could simply be for while, taking in the empty beauty of forest, beach and a sea surface only broken by crab pot floats; smell the sweetness of beached seaweed and the sour assault of beach grass.

My mind and heart tell me to wait and watch, ignore the line of rain clouds moving down from Lena Point, block out the drumming of passing float places, curse the bass hum of a fish buyer’s tender moving slowly up Lynn Canal. When the rising tide dislodges a gang of gulls huddling on an off shore rock, their loud complaints push me back to the woods and up the trail as the first drops of rain spot beach rocks like holy water sprayed on a shirt freshly laundered for Easter.    P1110051

Neither Yob nor Supplicant Be

P1110019

“Aki, you can burn some freshly cut wood like birch, but not alder.” The little poodle mix doesn’t need this information but I have to tell someone if just to stem my anger at the yob who severed, with a dull axe, the top half of this lovely beach alder from its gray skinned trunk. Aki often receives lectures inspired by the minor criminals or fools and their active disrespect for the rain forest.

We walk a trail between old growth forest and a stunning line of alders reaching out over normally clean beach gravel. It’s the first day of rain following weeks of sun and almost record heat. Fog fights a losing battle with the rising south wind for control of Lynn Canal, its mass torn to shreds that hang over the water like canon smoke does over a battlefield. All normal on the water. The woods are full of trash and abandoned camping gear now glistening with rain drops. I see the expected — plastic bottles, empty boxes that once contained 24 cans of cheap American beer, hacked trees, crap.

“If they are drawn here for beauty, why do people celebrate Midsommer with thoughtlessness and small acts of vandalism?” Aki pees in sympathy.

P1110025Hoping to find nature still preserved on the other side of False Outer Point we round it and see things as they should be. An eagle complains of our presence or maybe at the crows feeding behind him at the stressed campsite. On the water a line of whale watching boats wait like supplicants for humpbacks to surface from their searching dives. Those on aboard the boats may watch a whale slide gracefully to the surface, exhale a sail of vapor, slide under the sea, repeat all that two more times before gracefully extending tail flukes skyward to announce a deep dive.

Being more tortoise with a camera than yob or supplicant I join Aki in a slow motion race with the tide to round a series of sea bluffs before they are made impassable by rising water.  We take a trail into calming old growth just after rounding the last bluff. Here high summer is celebrated with an explosion of green slowly being reduced by hungary insects.  It brings instant comfort, like a plunge into the cool water of a desert lake.  “Relax Aki, yobs can’t or won’t walk this far away from their cars.” P1110027

The warm wind

L1210241

Today the sunny warm weather continues but there is warm wind. It blows down Lynn Canal, raising lines of choppy waves to march upon Juneau. Aki and I watch from the safety of second growth woods near Amalga Harbor. The warm wind agitates Aki but relaxes me wearing only jeans, a short sleeve T shirt and ball cap.

Passing through the wind dappled forest we spot wild flowers in unexpected places. My favorite are two star shaped flowers, each growing out of their own plants, each white, shaped like Austrian Edelweiss. No high country meadow this.

L1210204Leaving the forest we walk over slabs of brown and gray rocks tattooed by lichen. The outlet stream to Peterson Creek Salt Chuck cuts channels through the rocky tumble. We could cross over them to extend the walk but at the cost of wet feet. Instead I watch an eagle spiraling up over Peterson Creek then surprising us with sudden barrel rolls. (turning 360 degrees on the long axis of his body).

I think of the bear we passed on the drive here. A black bear by species, it had cinnamon L1210225colored fur. He lay alone in shade on a grassy bed but kept his head up to scan for danger or a possible meal.

No bears on this rocky trail back to the car. There are gulls hovering above the sparkling sea then diving for food. There is this Wild Iris, its single bloom already collapsing into a purple mess. We make do with stands of blooming blue lupine, Nagoon berries and a few chocolate lilies—the color of their little drooping bells earning them the name.

L1210249

 

Ongoing Conversion

L1210169

During this extended streak of warm, sunny weather I’m becoming a bit of a spend thrift; squandering daylight hours inside reading or watching the TV. The pattern even affects my selection of hiking trails. This morning we take a heavily forested path, one that alleviates the need for sun screen. There’s a beach at its apex but most of it will be in shade when we arrive there.

What starts as a lazy indulgence turns into a conversion experience, at least for me. Aki is Aki, a dog most interested in the pee and poop of other canines. For me it’s the light, now piercing straight down through the spruce canopy to transform the color of blue berry brush and expanding devil’s clubs. On the beaver flooded portions of forest floor each pair of illuminated skunk cabbage leaves seem to admire their reflections in dark pond waters. Looking up I watch a cloud of small white butterflies fly into and out of the dark spaces in the old growth.

L1210192Commercial companies guide cruise ship tourists through this cathedral of trees. If each step along the path enriches my spiritual life, what does it do to them; they who ate full fat breakfasts on one of the Princess Cruise boats then wandered among the downtown tee shirt and jewelry shops before boarding their Gasteneau Guiding bus for the trail head. The beauty must hit them like a sledge hammer.

Approaching the beach I notice salt flavoring the moisture softened air that Aki and I both breathe. On this gentle, almost windless day, tiny ocean waves mimic the breathing of a sleeping giant. Since the midday sun light washes alway all the sea’s drama we don’t spend much time on the beach, but the sound of breathing travels with us well into the forest.

L1210182

Sun and the Last Bit of Snow

P1110015

 

With boots finally dried from the beaver pond dunking and the sun finally shinning like civilized people come to expect in summer, we returned to the mountain meadows. I bring little expectation of wildflowers since they hadn’t showned themselves during last week’s visit.  The almost cartoon yellow skunk cabbage still hold a monopoly on color in the highest meadow but we find tiny magenta treasures—the poisonous bog rosemary and something I call, “wild rhododendron” (see photo)  on the second. Here also blooms the cloudberry and bog blueberry.

P1110017Rather than continue to the lowest meadow we leave the path in search of the insect eating sundews. I found them here before but being blinded and made lazy by the sun we pass without a discovery. Aki really doesn’t care. She’s found the last patch of snow where she played chase the chunks of snow flying off somebody’s boot game. It’s a dog thing.

For the Price of Wet Boots

P1100986

It’s enough on this windless, gray summer morning, to be alone on the moraine with Aki.  She almost died on our last visit, giving into curiosity and the urge to across thin ice after a noisy beaver. Today we will avoid that part of the Troll Woods but not forgo adventure.

P1100957Along open sections of trail, especially around the burned out bit of forest, the wild lupine unfold their blue and white flowers that reflect in mounds of rain water still clinging to upturned leaves.  This is the only show of color, except the green of new growth that is everywhere; the only drama if you don’t count cloud reflections on flat calm lake water. Every now and then a just planted juvenile king salmon brakes the lake surface, apparently happy to be free of the fish tank of his birth.

P1100959We could stay here in this calm gray and green place, maybe check out the beaver village for signs of this season’s building projects but I’m drawn to the lake beyond a rubicon of beaver flooded trail. I manage to make it across the inundated trail to a well maintained beaver dam. With Aki in tow I work along the top of the dam, stopping to enjoy the little forest of mares tail growing along the glacier side of the dam. We can see the glacier from here by looking over the beaver’s pond and through poles of dead trees. Buckbean (British Tobacco) grow straight and tall above the pond surface that reflects their angular leaf pairs and towers of downward facing white flowers.

P1100980The dam is really a dike between two ponds. We find a gap halfway across that doesn’t look deep enough to make up turn around.  I take two steps in shallow water and then sink the third into a deep channel, flooding a boot with pond water and soaking my pants.  Again I’m a victim of the beavers. Aki swims across the channel without urging.  Clouds of mosquitos descend on me but do not bite. Reaching the other side of the gap we walk across the dike to an infrequently visited section of the Troll Woods. The bugs leave, as if driven away but the bird song that seems to come from everywhere. It’s almost loud enough to block the sound of a beaver tail slap coming from the pond. Aki hears it and charges to pond’s edge but comes back quickly, satisfied with the role of tourist. Just up the trail we find a fresh pile of bear scat that may have been left by the bear that crossed the road as we approached the trail head. Time to leave.

 

Kings and Turtles and Flabby Farmers

P1100921

 

In the morning’s strengthening sunshine this string of mountain meadows lies like flabby farmers on a beach, satisfied to merely feel the warm sun banish memories of a heavy snow winter. Aki and I have left it late, having missed the first daylight so my camera can’t capture the beauty I see on the still brown ground.

P1100910Aki finds remnant  strips of snow for rolling. Walking behind I find her little paw print joining one left by a passing deer. It’s the only drama on offer today so my mind wanders to king salmon and turtles and Edward Hoagland’s essay, “The Courage of Turtles,” where he writes with incredible restraint about a public works project wiping out turtle habitat near his home. In a short time a place much loved on each visit is gone, leaving ducks to wander about a drying landscape for food and turtles to die encased in hardening mud.  He allows the facts to convince.

P1100938Will I be as able to hide the pain if the king salmon disappear our native waters?  Great muscled fish, kings spend up to six years in open ocean growing to spawning size. Then, they return to us, those that avoid voracious sea lions and the organized hunts of killer whales, refuse the commercial trollers hooks, and swim under mile long drift nets set by pirates in international waters.

The government created a king salmon run in the very creek draining this relaxing meadow.  I think about what will fall away if the kings never return: no more rich tasting red meat for me and mine, loss of their powerful presence on the spawning grounds, possible famine for eagle and bear. Even the trees will miss the enrichment of king carcasses turning to soil.  P1100952

It Must be Summer Now

 

 

L1210148

 

Six days of dry, sunny days in the northern rainforest can throw off my internal clock. Experiencing  it dog sitting at a friend’s beach house compounds the problem. Here at water’s edge, I feel my sleep patterns slipping as we stay up with the daylight of each lengthening day., seduced by how it deepens shadows on surrounding mountains while appearing to set alight their remaining snow. (My word selection is also affected).

L1210158Aki and her dog buddy seem unaffected. Yesterday, or was it the day before, we took them up a forest trail, crossing several small streams with the careful asymmetry of a Japanese garden, until reaching a pocket meadow dotted with stunted pines. For the dogs we could have been on any trail frequented by other dogs that leave behind signature smells. I hoped to find the magenta flowers of a Shooting Star. Even this long stretch of good weather couldn’t force that miracle in May.

Last evening, Memorial Day in the USA,  we found a patch of the flowers in full bloom in a beachside meadow. We had ridden there on bicycles, Aki riding in a handlebar basket.  While we ate a late picnic dinner at meadow’s edge the air filled with geese and gulls disturbed by others there to enjoy the convergence of sun, warmth, and the holiday that marks the beginning of our summer. A bald eagle, securely placed mid-river on a protruding drift log root, appeared to ignore the cloud of gleaming white gulls and scattering Canada Geese.

L1210155