Monthly Archives: April 2019

Winter’s Muscle Move

I was in the kitchen, making coffee, thinking about using some sheltered beach for this morning’s walk when unexpected sunshine lit up Dan Moller Basin. The sun reflected intense light off the freshly fallen snow that flocked the basin’s spruce trees. I had to squint even though the basin is across the channel from our house and at least a kilometer away from our kitchen window. 

Hey little dog, we’re heading to the mountains. Aki, who was stilled curled up on the bed, didn’t stirred. Thinking only of winter’s beauty and not the cold baggage that accompanies it, I dressed Aki in a light wrap and chose rain gear for myself. We drove to Eagle Crest, Juneau’s closed-for-the-season ski area. The temperature dropped as we gained altitude until it was just above freezing. Our car tires wobbled slightly on the snowy road. 

Two inches of new snow covered the trailhead parking area. More was falling as we started down the trail. I wished that I had brought gloves. The little dog looked like she would rather be some place else. Neither of us was prepared for this late attempt by winter to reclaim the mountains. 

By doddling behind and stopping each time I turned to check on her, Aki made her wishes clear. When I gave up and turned to join her she raised her tail to its happy position and dashed back toward the car. The snow stopped and sunshine began to leak through the cloud layer. In seconds the snow caught by the meadow’s trees melted.  That covering the trail shrank, exposing bare gravel and puddles of melt water. 

Reunion

High winds rattled our house windows this morning. But Aki was still willing to head out for a walk. Last night she met me at the airport after a ten-day separation. I wondered, as I walked off he plane, whether she would be happy to see me.  While we were gone, she spent every day with neighbors who took her on walks. Her nights were spent with family. She had it made. When I neared, the little poodle-mix raised her nose toward me, not in derision but to gather in my scent. It seemed to please her. 

            This morning we drive out to North Douglas Island and use the False Outer Point Trail to become reacquainted. At first Aki ignored me as she catalogued smells and cues left behind by other dogs. She caught up with me at the beaver pond, where we had watched a bevy of swans before I left for California. The swans were gone but two mallard drakes floated in the rain. 

            The rain slacked off but not the wind. We listened to the pulsing gusts bend the treetops, sounding like high surf along a California beach.   The forest sheltered the beach and bays that border it from the wind. Hundreds of goldeneye ducks puttered over calm water. When I took a break from watching them, I spotted Aki, watching with patience concern—a loving parent ready to protect her sometimes-foolish charge.  

Rough Landing

The flight back from California involved brief stops in Seattle and Ketchikan. Winds buffeted our plane while it landed in both airports. I barely noticed the bumps as we approached Seattle. But, as the pilot warned on our approach to Ketchikan, high winds streaking down that Alaska town’s runway were going to make the landing “a little rough.” 

            The pilot’s warning didn’t discourage me. I was more than ready to be home with Aki. It didn’t matter that Aki’s other human and I had we just left a sunny coastal town where each morning I could ride a bicycle every morning past breaking waves and sleeping seals. I missed the little dog and the rest of our rain forest family. I was also tired of the crowds drawn by sunshine and beauty to the California coast. 

            As I do during after the pilot begins the “gradual descent” of the plane to an Southeast Alaska airport, on the approach to Ketchikan I remind myself that I was more likely to be killed in my California rental car than in this airplane.  Closing my eyes, I thought of Gastineau Channel on a calm day where the oversized dorsal fin of a male killer whale or the flukes of a diving humpback whale might be seen. The jerking motion of the plane shook those thoughts from my mind. As the plane bounced down out of the clouds and over standing waves on Tongass Narrows, I closed my eyes and waited for the plane’s wheels to slam onto the tarmac.  It did and then shimmed down the runway until the brakes finally slowed momentum. Even after the plane stopped and a flight attendance welcomed us to beautiful Ketchikan, high winds rocked the plane like a cradle. 

Point Lobos

Wolves make Aki nervous. If here with me on California’s central coast, the little dog might have refused to join me on this hike across Point Lobos. I won’t see any wolves while exploring the point. But there will be seals and sea otters.

After walking through spare woods, I reach an area of coves and islands. Generations of cormorants have whitened bare cliffs above a sea otter bay. They seem to watch a family of otters ride up and down on the swells. Around the corner a couple of Canada geese have positioned themselves near a bench where hikers like to lunch. What ever happened to the once wild birds?

I ignore the honking geese and move on to where I can look into a protected cove where an adult otter is teaching its young one to swim. The baby, looking like a big puppy, tries to cling to mom. Each time the mom pushes her baby away. Finally they face each other, tails straight down. The mother breaks off the embrace, forcing the baby to work out how to swim on its own.

Asilomar

It’s still sunny as I wind down Pacific Grove streets to the beach at Asilomar. Sunlight shines off the coats of two very tame deer eating ice plant near the road. Living here has taught them to ignore men on two wheels. They have never been prey, just potential victims of one of the autos processing along the beach.

I ride past the deer and over to an ocean overlook. The high surf makes me wonder how anything could live in these coastal waters. But my visit yesterday to the Monterey Aquarium provided proof of a rich marine environment.

Real waves

The chilling wind is familiar, but not the huge waves. Aki wouldn’t like it here. She wouldn’t even bother to watch the turkey vultures hovering as if on strings in the wind or the seals asleep on the beach , doing great imitations of rounded rocks.

The little dog is back home in Juneau. I am standing above a Monterey California beach, trying to shelter behind a cypress tree.

Crossing to Shaman Islands

I knew that the tide would be low when we reached this North Douglas beach. But I didn’t expect to see the causeway to Shaman Island exposed.  I decided to walk across it and return before the tide turned. Aki wouldn’t follow me so I’d had to carry her. To reach the path we had to cross a stretch of open beach frequently flown over by eagles. Fear of them causes the little dog to hug the forest’s edge whenever we walk up this beach at low tide. 

            Holding the poodle-mix with one arm and my camera in the other I walked to the causeway. We met a couple of hikers coming back from the island. They managed to spot two oystercatchers on the spit. The little dog and I didn’t. There were the usual crows and gulls and harlequin docks, but no oystercatchers.  A pair of common goldeneye ducks flew low over our heads, offering me a hunter’s eye view of their chests. 

            The sun climbed above the clouds as we started back across the causeway. I had to carry Aki again, this time because part of the path was already under water. Minutes after we returned to the beach the causeway became impassable. 

            Continuing on to the car, we passed the beaver pond where we had seen the swans a few days ago. At first I only spotted three of the big white birds. Then I noticed another two in a brush-choked portion of the pond. A fight broke out when the two isolated guys tried to rejoin the rest of the bevy. Two of the swans rose up their heads and beat their wings at each other. Then, the apparent loser sulked off to the weeds. The remaining four floated past the little dog and I, long necks straight, looking like a naval squadron on parade. 

Grumpy Teenager

I am not as disappointed with today’s rain as this miserable looking bald eagle. It has perched itself on a rise of gravel just feet from the edge of Lynn Canal. its hunched posture and rain soaked feathers make it look miserable. Worse, the eagle is going through the transition into adulthood so splotches of white feathers pock its chestnut chest like acne on a teenager’s face. Behind it, Canada geese, mallards, and gulls, unfazed by the weather, patrol the water offshore for food.  

            Only the lower flanks of the Chilkat Mountains show beneath the marine layer. Perhaps the eagle misses his mountain view.  The water birds look as comfortable as tourists on a hot Rivera beach. They don’t need fancy raincoats or even hats.  The eagle’s mood might be enhanced by a little something from Patagonia. 

            We have just walked down Eagle River and across exposed tidal flats to the canal, passing a drake Bufflehead duck and two hens. The drake did a barrel roll while the ladies watched. The little dog and I have seen ducks plop forward in a dive or plunge their heads straight into the water until their feet and tail feathers are sticking straight into the air.  We have never seen one roll over and over while in the water. Is this an innovation spawned by love? 

More Swans

We hadn’t planned on hiking the False Outer Point Trail on this overcast day. But the parking lot for our targeted trail was jammed full of mini-vans.  I drive on to the Outer Point trailhead, park, and follow Aki into the old growth forest.  Only the blurry song of a varied thrush breaks the silence.  As the little dog splashes through streams of water leaking from the beaver dam, I spot three white blobs floating on the far side of pond. A long, white neck rises from the water and I realize that they are trumpeter swans. 

            I’d like to linger and watch but Aki seems in a hurry to reach the beach. She wins out, as usual, and we both walk quickly to the beach. Only a handful of mallards drift off shore. Low clouds reduce the view of the Chilkat Mountains on the other side of Lynn Canal. Nothing too exciting. At least we saw the swans. 

            The trail takes us back into the woods and then onto another beach. Here we watch harlequin ducks ride a light swell. In better light we could have made out their bright party colors. I still enjoy watching them dive under the water and pop back up with food.  

            Aki doesn’t like to linger on the beach so we are soon back in the woods, taking the return trail to the car. The little dog doesn’t object when I turn onto a little-used path that ends up at the beaver pond.  The swans are feeding near the beaver dam when we arrive. 

There are six swans, not three in the bevy.  One stands watch while the other five plunge their long necks under the water in search of food. They don’t seem to notice me squatted down on the beaver dam until another group of hikers arrives. I am not sure if the big birds would have reacted to them if one of the hikers hadn’t tried to do a poor impersonation of a swan honk. The guard swan stares at me until I move up the trail. It had already returned feeding by the time I turn back for one last look.  I feel guilty for distracting them, even for a moment, from feeding. They still have a long way to fly before reaching their northern breeding grounds.             

Trust Issues

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When we reach the border of the Treadwell Woods and Sandy Beach Aki leaps onto the sand and charges up to a brace of Bernese mountain dogs. The dogs and their masters are kind so I am not worried. Aki squeals and runs circles around the big dogs trying to entice them into a game of tag. They stand like stunned statutes rather than accept my little poodle-mix’s invitation. 

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            Fifty meters away an adult bald eagle watches the show from atop the old mine ventilation shaft.  A minus ebb tide has exposed much of the beach and emptied the little moat that usually isolates the ventilation shaft from the rest of the breach.  I expect the eagle to fly off when the little dog and I approach. But it just looks down with apparent distain on its face. Its mate roosts nearby on a barnacle-covered anchor. Even though the anchored bird is more exposed than the one on the ventilation shaft, it shows even less interest in me. 

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            After watching the eagles for a moment I look down, expecting to see Aki giving me a bored look. The little dog is twenty meters away standing near driftwood that would offer her a hiding place if things went bad with the eagles. 

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            We walk parallel courses down the beach until forced to return to the woods by the little cove formed by the collapse of a mining tunnel. While watching a golden eye hen launching itself into a dive, Aki appears at my feet. She gives me one of her “you are not going to do something stupid” looks, like she thinks I am going to try to cross the deep cove. No trust, little dog, no trust. 

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