Ok It’s Spring

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Aki and I picked this trail through the old growth today because heavy rain can’t impose its full will on us in here. We walked over frozen ground our last visit, now softened by rain and what passes for the warmth of spring. Then only the winter evergreens and foolhardy skunk cabbage showed much color.

Today blueberry and huckleberry bushes cover the understory with a canopy, thick and undulating enough to mimic in green an unsettled sea. With the swollen creek’s song almost masking those of nesting birds I imagine launching our double kayak from the trail to explore among the spruce islands but only after pulling the spray skirts tight to keep from being swamped with fresh leaves.

P1100895The berry bushes’ exuberance doesn’t spell the end of winter. They have a history of misjudging the seasons. I hold out for sign from the forest elders, devil’s club and spruce, before packing away the ice cleats; finding it in the cabbage like growths forming at the tip of each devil’s club stalk, the swelling needle buds that will soon form dark green accents at on the edges of every spruce twig and branch.

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Looking for Light and Beauty in Heavy Rain

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It’s as if this heavy rain washed all beauty and light from the moraine. Without their displays of yellow green leaves trail side alders and willows look drained of life. Willing to put up with a soaking, Aki and I press on to the river finding only gray green water flooding over its banks and a circus of swallows hunting newly hatched mosquitos.

P1100849Tiny islands of summer do appear on the next trail taken: sparkles of rain water trapped in the upturned leaves of lupines, garish red strings of alder pollen blossoms, an American Robin, optimistic songs of wren and thrust. Needing a richer display I lead Aki into a tiny spruce forest covered with thick yellow green moss. The little dog perks up, dashing over the moss softened ground in search of beaver sign. I see it first — a large cotton wood tree first felled then striped of bark by beaver teeth to reveal the tree’s clean white flesh.

In this lush island’s heart a car from the 1930’s rusts away, paintless except for one oval shaped headlight stubborn enough to retain a coat of green. Nearby the feathers and bones of a Canada Geese, stripped of flesh by ravens shine with rain.

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Beauty, Endurance, Prey

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Aki and I are the only ones this wetland today not looking for safety. The birds, transients or locals, must use location, numbers or speed to avoid their predators. Only the Lesser Scaups sleep in peace on a river made wide by a flooding tide.

L1200806A low marine layer blocks any views of the glacier or mountains and persistent rain discourages any skyward views. If not forced downward I would have missed this solitary tern resting just off shore on vertical shaft of driftwood, not seen its curving black cap over white head and grey body.  Until last year terns bred on a sand bar near the glacier before leading their young on one of their South American migration. Then ravens raided their nests and the sudden bursting of a glacier dam flooded them out. No chicks made the trip south last fall.

L1200797Beyond the tern, sea lions splash and make noises that I can almost duplicate by forming the word “are” where my mouth and throat connect. Behind us 100 Canada Geese, driven off the protection of their offshore sand bar fly deeper into the meadow to reform and designate members to watch for danger. Leaving the tern we walk through a ghost forest of weathered spruce and hemlock corpses, all carried from their place of growth by storm tides then striped of branches and bark on their journey to this riverside meadow.

The trail ends at the dead forest’s far edge where flooding waters discomfort a clutch of shorebirds until they burst up to form a cloud that expands and contracts as they fly a serpentine pattern over water then around Aki and I. I love the way they flash their brown backs then white bellies in unison, injecting the intensity of mountain snow in sunlight on this subtle gray day.

Cropley Lake

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Aki and I return to the mountains, this time with a reinforcement, with plans to climb to Cropley Lake. The Scots would call it a corrie; in France its a cirque— a pothole lake left by the retreating the glacier after carving out the surrounding mountain amphitheater.  It’s a steep climb up, made more difficult today by the soft wet snow on which we snow shoe.

The series of bowls and meadows we cross offer great sport for Aki as she dashes between myself and her other housemate. As I climb a particularly steep bowl, the little dog stands by my partner as she exchanges text messages with our traveling child. They stand in a pocket of reception in mountains without cell coverage until I reach Aki’s limit of 50 meters of separation. She charges up the mountain snow until reaching my side then flies down to her other human. Up and down she goes as we move toward the lake.

P1120795A scattering of hard done spruce trees occupy the next meadow we cross.  What first must have seemed like a perfect place for sprucelings to grow (easy light and abundant water) the meadow offered paradise for the young trees until they grew tall enough to attract attention from the wind and blowing snow. Those forces first shaped the trees into tough twisted survivors, then stripped them of green and eventually life. The old dead ones only offer tall perches for hunting birds and signposts for us.

We find the lake still covered deep snow while avalanche tracks mark the surrounding mountain bowls. Above one the sun shines surrounded by a circular rainbow cut by vapor trails of passing jets.

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Role Reversal

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Here we are again—the poodle on one side of a softening expanse of white over  water, me on the other. This time it’s Aki acting with caution, me on impulse. A roaring but narrow Fish Creek separates us. She need only cross a thinning snow bridge to join me on the uphill side. Huddling small on snow made bright by strong sun, the little dog waits for me to return to my senses and her side.

P1120750She who has no memory of her naughty acts is clearly thinking of our visit to the Troll Woods and her dunking in icy pond water, how she charged across thin pond ice towards the sound of a beaver tail slap on water until the ice gave way.  She beams me her most pathetic look then moves, wounded dog style closer to the stream edge. I could explain the physics of then thing or continue climbing the sleep snowy slope with hopes that the invisible tether that connects us will pull her across the snow bridge. Instead I maneuver around the edge of a hemlock tree and recross the bridge, pick up Aki with kind hands, assure her with a similar tone, and cross the snow bridge a third time.

Together we climb on a softening slope of snow up through a mixed softwood forest to packed trail. Aki dashes around on the firm flat snow before trotting back to my side. Two eagles fly lazy circles over us, then head toward the saddle between two rounded peaks with faces scarred by recent avalanches. A child could recreate the scene of pure primary colors with four or five crayons.

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Near Death Experience

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Across a lake almost covered by a floating island of white, a young beaver slaps open water with its tail. Aki breaks from my feet to dash across ice too soft to support any effort of mine at rescue, seduced to disobedience by the percussive rodent. I call repeatedly for her return, knowing the ice or beaver could end her life.

L1200731The ice takes the first shot—giving way to drop the little poodle mix into a cocktail of ice and water. She dog paddles toward my voice and pulls herself out of the water at ice edge. Now she looks back to the beaver or is it the shore, both much nearer to her than I. Should I keep silent and hope she swims to safety on the far shore or keep calling, trusting that the ice is firm enough between she and I to offer the better path? I call out for her to return, knowing the beaver is nearer to Aki than I. She seems to weigh her choices, turning her head to me and then back to the opposite shore and falls into the water again.

I call encouragement and then, “come back here you stupid little dog.” “Are those last words she will hear?” No. Aki again pulls herself onto firm ice and then sprints back to the moss at my feet.

The little dog immediate begins exploring the Troll Woods trail for interesting smells—the near death experience forgotten. I chew on it for a long time, wondering at the resilience of poodles.

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Joy Replaced by Determination

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Driven in by rising winds determination replaces last week’s joyful exuberance in this old growth forest. Induced by the false promises of a fickle spring, the berry clans, blue and huckleberry, used their last winter reserves to flower before the storm. Now thousands of translucent and tiny Japanese lanterns rock in cold wind. We will share good crop of berries with the bears if true spring arrives in time.

 

P1100825On the forest floor waxy yellow skunk cabbage stalks power through new snow. Some unfurl to mimic a cupped human hand raised to catch a thrown ball. They fare best in ground now flooded by a swelling beaver pond.

 

Leaving the forest we find thick piles of storm driven seaweed along the beach’s high tide line. Pulsating wind pushes up forward. When a gust hits Aki’s unprotected privates she leaps in the air and then looks for the person guilty of such rudeness. I maintain enough space to avoid suspicion.

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Last Storm Breaking?

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Over morning coffee Aki and I watch winter and spring’s seasonal war for Chicken Ridge. A north wind blew down Seventh Street all night, demoralizing artillery to soften us up for this morning’s heavy snowfall. Enjoying what each season has to offer I don’t have a dog in the fight. My sculptor’s heart loves the way the storm outlines the strong lines of naked ash limbs and mixes whites with spruce’s somber greens. The gardner worries whether our lilacs and the apple tree will ever flower.

Aki hates the north wind but joyfully exploits the rest of what weather has on offer.  She strains at the leash as we head up Seventh Street for the Perseverance Trail.  A neighbor with dog joins up for a couple of blocks, sharing a recent avalanche warning, agreeing to call for help if we don’t return on time. We both know that avalanche run outs can cover part of my intended trail this time of year. It’s early in the day for avalanches and it takes less than a minute to cross the troubled spot so I don’t change plans.

P1100802The tracks of only one car and one person mark the snow covering Basin Road. We use it to pass a string of craftsman houses clinging to the hill side of Mr. Maria and gain the entrance to the old wooden trestle bridge.  There we meet the homeless man, smoking his hand rolled cigarette cradled in a shaky left hand. He greets Aki with a kind word but only shows me distain–quickly pulling on his street armor while walking between dog and man.

We follow the homeless man’s solitary track across the bridge and up the old mining road toward Perseverance Basin. This evidence of his purposeful stride reassures me as we approach the avalanche chute as does the low hum of drumming grouse. An animal sound. something a coyote might make while laughing rattled my confidence. This portent of disaster only sounds when we walk. It stops when we do. Is the coyote that hunts this canyon sending a warning or just indulging himself at our considerable expense? Assuming it no more than a tease I join Aki as she follows the homeless man’s tracks on approach to the avalanche chute.  There, between battered trees we see a clear trail, find the  mountain above silent as we cross the safety.

P1100812Shortly after the snow stops and its thinning delivery clouds let in weak sunlight. The melt begins immediately, creating local rain storms under each snow burdened tree that soak dog and man but not the birds, robin and thrush, now singing spring’s victory song.

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It’s good a deer can’t feel despair

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Here we are on the last Saturday in April making deep tracks in 6 inches of new snow. Aki must porpoise to make progress—connecting together a string of leaps that imitate the snow shoe hare or a frisky dolphin. Each leap sends her ears skyward to point in the same direction as her tail.

For the first mile only the tracks of her plunging passage and my post holes of progress mark the snow.  Just past a stream crossing we find recent tracks of a deer. If capable of despair, this hoofed animal must be full of it. A few days ago this forest offered a budding banquet. last night an inadequate shelter, this morning a difficult passage to safety.

L1200620Aki, who ran in front of me until now, drifts casually behind after sniffing the air. Crossing the stream again I notice the zipper pattern of otter tracks fast dissolving on the water’s surface. Only an animal comfortable in and out water in winter could have made such confident passage over weak ice.  Something must have happened to the little dog on one her independent forages into otter country.

This forest and the riverine meadow it borders offers some hospitality for the migrants moving in for the summer.  While watching a Northern Harrier fly across the trail I am startled by a noisy red and orange blur approaching through falling snow.  Apparently realizing that my my red coat was not a mass of columbine flowers, this hungry hummingbird buzzes by my ear then out of site. Another wild thing that can’t welcome winter’s return. What, I wonder out load, could be sustaining such the little nectar feeder then spot what may be the answer—a forest full of blue berry blossoms resisting the weight of new fallen snow.

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We all wonder how the hummingbird survives their long migration to our rain forest. An elder in Ketchikan once told me that they ride snuggled in the feathers of north bound geese. She may be right. In the direction from where the hummingbird approached we see Canada geese and a pair of resting swans.

A Soft Day at the Treadwell Ruins

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We spend part of this soft day among the Treadwell ruins. It’s all Christmas Day for Aki with her dog’s social interest in who or what has passed before. Rain and grayness force my attention downward and inward like the low marine layer now blocking the view of our smallest mountains. On such walks I expect the profound up but end up settling for discoveries of small beauty.

P1100722There is wonder here where more than 100 years ago men and woman forged a community of craftsmen; building and exploiting turbines and pipes and the power they produced to pummel our native rock until it released hidden gold. It all ended when a mine tunnel under Gasteneau Channel collapsed and sea water flooded the works.  The builders and miners and those that took care of their physical needs all left, abandoning their city of man to the destructive power of alders and the rain.

We find their most resistant constructions scatters about the alder forest—bent rails, ore carts, great iron wheels, even the chassises of cars built before the U.S. entered World War I. Most emerge from blankets of electric green moss but some relics prefer to rust to their death naked on the forest floor.    P1100728