Rock on Dude

Raven Detail

Ravens and gulls are the salt and pepper for the Juneau waterfront. Maybe worn out from dealing with the first two jumbo cruise ships of the year that docked here yesterday, members of the raven cabal have draped themselves on the dock rails and the library roof. The gulls bob like newly husked rice on the channel waters. Prevented by the anti-terrorist fencing from giving the ravens comfortable personal space, we walk with a few feet of a small batch. Most keep their wings clamped tight to their bodies but one, with eyes squeezed shut, lets the breeze plays with his purple-black feathers. “Rock on dude.”

raven tree

Maybe This Was Not Such a Good Idea

glacier

Aki runs wide circles around me in the troll woods as I walk down a little used trail in the troll woods. I feel like General Robert E. Lee must have felt with J.E.B. Stuart’s cavalry reconnoitering his flank near Gettysburg. The quirky Stuart injected much uncertainty into Lee’s Pennsylvania campaign. My little dog, ear flaps bouncing with every step, charges across moraine covered with thick, electric green moss, leaps over a beaver felled tree and dives under a tangle of blueberry brush. I am happy for her evident joy but also worried about her possible run in with a porcupine or bear. I just exchanged bear sighting stories with another dog walker who warned of the presence of a sow with three cubs. Should I even be here, so deep in a forest on a trail that dips through country that blocks my view beyond 10 or 20 feet? As usual, I only have this kind of conversation with myself when we are halfway through a place we probably shouldn’t have entered.

forest

Church Meadow

skunk cabbage

It is hard not to think of church this morning. In every rivulet on the meadow, backlit skunk cabbage flowers glow like yellow sanctuary lights. Exploding leaf pods of cottonwoods fill the air with balsam incense. Small ponds capture stain glass images of the Mt. Roberts’ ridge framed by snarled bull pines. There is even a choir lead by robin soloists backed by thrushes and wrens.

reflection

Sheep Creek

ore house

I have forgotten how new yellow-green cottonwood and alder leaves bring back to the Sheep Creek Delta some fall glory. Turning away from the show, Aki and I watch some migrants working in salt water near the beach. The workers, a small raft of green-headed northern shovelers move with a casualness that none of the local birds dare to show. This is a rest and refuel spot for the visitors who must soon return to their migration to central Alaska.

shovelors

A shaft of sunlight hits the rust red sides of an old ore building and the green wall of cottonwoods behind it. Thick curtains of clouds douse Juneau town with rain while across channel sun shines down on the mine ruins of Treadwell. Is nature trying to teach us something with these contrasts? More likely we witness the disparities delivered by a metrological toss of the dice. If we are being punished for our sins, they must be of overindulgence rather than violation of a spiritual rule—the overuse of carbon releasing machines like the seiner moving up channel or the car I drove to et us here.

Birds but No Bees

glaicer Does Aki prefer the one note song of a varied thrush or robin’s happy refrain? She wouldn’t tell me even if I asked, which is impossible at the moment because she is off investigating a patch of grass 50 meters away. We are moving through dense alder brush on the way to the Mendenhall River. The woods hide what sounds like hundreds of birds, each singing a carnal song of spring. Aki, neutered long ago, ignores the din. moose lake I stop on a patch of trail temporality flooded with morning light and search without success for the choir. “Why,” I wonder, “Do we say we taught our children about the birds and the bees by explaining the mechanics of human procreation?” Aki and I know there are birds in these woods singing for a mate and others doing what is necessary to continue their bloodline. But I’ve never seen a bird, let along a bee, do it. Well, there was that time when I saw two eagles lock talons and tumble toward the ground. But trees blocked my view of their final descent so I never learned whether they consummated their love before striking the ground.

Watching the Watchers

lily pads

This morning, another storm sweeps through Juneau. Its rain discourages trips outside. But, I have good rain gear and a dog determined to have her daily adventure so we drive out to North Douglas where a trail meanders through protecting old growth trees. At the trail head, heavy drops slam into Aki’s fleece wrap. She gives a full body shake and trots into the woods where the spruce/hemlock canopy keeps out the worst of the storm. I think the rain has stopped until the trail takes us to a beaver pond where emerging water lily fronds, still infant brown, curl toward the gray sky, accepting the rain drop battering as if it were punishment from God.

ducks

Crossing through more woods, we reach the beach where aggressive surf hammers the gravel. It releases a salt sea smell that we can only enjoy when a westerly stirs the fjord waters of Lynn Canal. Crows stand at the tide line and stare at surf like a bloke might stare at football on TV. A small raft of parti-colored harlequin ducks appears and disappears in the offshore swell. Four form a line and turn to watch the little dog just before they slip behind a wave. As is always the case, they watch us and we them.

crow

Robin Egg Blue

egg

A storm is moving in. Its first breaths of wind stir Aki’s curls as she dashes after her orange Frisbee. She flies by the royal blue shell fragment that rests next to the moraine trail—the top half of a robin egg shell of a shape and color that could have made it a fine wine goblet for the mouse king if not for a small hole on one side—evidence of efforts by the occupant to break into the world. Nestling it in my hand, I wonder at it’s lack of weight, how it stirs in the strengthening wind, if it protected its occupant until birth, or carried the little chick to its death.

mountain

Mountain Goat Acrobat

goats

This morning, as we do on every walk, little Aki and I teach each other patience. Tethered together on the busy lower section of Perseverance Trail, I must stop often and wait for the little dog to sniff and mark. She must sit while I try to photograph three mountain goats that graze on the slope of Mt. Juneau. The goats were further down the mountain last night when we took advantage of early summer weather to walk the lower section of the trail. One goat feed near the base of a waterfall; close enough for me to make out its four legs and head without binoculars. Do they move down to the sweetest forage when human and dog traffic falls off at night? This morning, as a truck takes the last Mt. Roberts’ trailhead parking lot, the goats move steadily up the steep slope.

goat

Last night one goat flew from a rocky ledge. It appeared to leap, rather than fall, and sailed above a hundred foot drop at an angle that carried it behind a rock outcrop. This morning, I wonder if it’s broken body lies on top of avalanche scree. If the goat is dead, ravens and eagles would be circling above it. I see nothing but a goat, hopefully last night’s acrobat, feeding a quarter a mile up slope.

catkins

Aki, patience at an end, tugs me away from the goats and up the trail where willow catkins shimmer in strong sunlight.

catkins 2

Dash on Little Dog

mountains

Aki and I climb a service road to a high mountain meadow that still has snow. It’s an odd morning. No one else shares the road even though its over 50 degrees and blue sky backstops mountains, each a spruce green and white quilt. There is sun but it shines through a thin pewter haze that shows no sign of dissipating. Then there is the wind, not the broad breeze that can sweep across mountain and meadow, lifting the poodle’s earflaps when she faces into it, but a wind confined like a river, to unseen channels. When we cross one of these whippy tributaries, Aki dips her head low and I use the jacket, minutes ago unnecessary in the rising heat, as shield.         Powering through, the little dog and I reach a saddle covered with snow. She is hesitant to follow me onto it, as if it lay over a lightly sleeping dragon. Maybe she smells the wolf that recently left this single track toward a pocket spruce forest. When the distance between us grows to the edge of her tolerance, Aki dashes toward me. Even though I am prepared for the dash, she runs too fast for me to capture her entire body with the camera.

Aki

Can the little dog read the signs of winter’s death, even in this high place? Already the rivulets run free, carrying snow melt to the sea. Bullet shaped skunk cabbage shoots power up through thawing ground. We can smell the decay of last fall’s grass and see the green specks of new growth pushing through it. Dash on, little dog, when this is gone, it will be all bog and biting bugs until next fall’s frosts.

melt

Exuberance

plant

It is hard not to be trite on Earth Day, when you write about a walk in the woods. By spotlighting unfurling leaves on the forest floor, the sun makes its tough not to dance like a druid. I turn off the composing machine and let my little dog be my metronome. Exuberance can be forgiven on our first real spring morning.