Bright Days

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Not knowing how long this sunny spell will last, I load Aki into the car and head out to places that look best in bright weather. First stop—Peterson Creek Salt Chuck. Aki whines and then shoots out of the car after I park next to the chuck. A small raft of mallard ducks sleeps on the other side of the salt-water lake. Near them two great blue heron hunt the shallows. Through a forest opening formed by the cascade that drains into the sea, I can see a slice of the Chilkat Range.

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I think about taking a trail that circles around the opposite side of the salt chuck until the ducks wake up and burst into the air. The herons are already gone. At the edge of the woods behind their fishing hole, three people lower their cameras.

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Later the little dog and I stand near the mouth of Eagle River and watch lines of waves crash into foam against the river’s protective sand bars. Some of the waves ride up the river. Later we will see a seal in the river, far from the mouth and I will wonder how it navigated the riling channel.

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Waiting for a Bus

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Aki and I hear wave strikes when we are still in the old growth forest. In a minute we will learn that the sounds are made by small waves that have been driven ashore by the north wind. Aki won’t bother or even acknowledge the presence of the thirty mallard ducks or sixty gulls that stand on the beach just beyond the splash zone.

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I think that the birds have been penned on the exposed beach by wind and waves until one of the gulls snatches a small fish from wave foam and gobbles it up. Rather than refugees, the gulls and ducks are exploiters: efficient feeder that let the wind and waves deliver breakfast.

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After paralleling the feed zone, the trail takes us through woods to another beach where a scattering gulls stand about looking like you might when waiting for a bus. One patrols the splash zone, turning from time to time to face the waves. It doesn’t flinch when a leading wave crashes toward it or step back when surrounded by rising foam.

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Glacier Eagles

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For the first time in a week, Aki sees her shadow. But, she doesn’t look at her dark self. She concentrates on an orange colored disk that flies along the shore of Mendenhall Lake. After running her Frisbee to ground, the little dog trots up to me. Distracted by a nearby eagle, I give Aki a nonchalant pat. The eagle, an immature bald, perches on a small rock and faces the glacier. I wonder if the big bird is stunned by the glowing river of ice or merely enjoy the warmth of afternoon sun on its chestnut colored back.

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The eagle turns its head to watch us. We place Aki on a lead so she won’t disturb the bird and circle around it. But we can’t avoid entering its privacy zone and it breaks into flight.

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After visiting a monster-sized beaver dam, we circle back to car but have to pause to let two mature bald eagles bathe in peace in a shallow stream. When other dog walkers approach these birds from the opposite direction they fly up into a nearby cottonwood tree and give us the stink eye when we pass underneath their roost.

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Fish Creek

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Aki and I slog up the Fish Creek Trail, entering a land gone to rest after the salmon runs. In late summer, pink and chum salmon fought for space and mates on the creek’s shallow stretches. They mated and died, providing food for bears, eagles and herons. Thick brush lined the trail, hiding the presence of bears until a black mass darts away when you round a corner or you narrowly miss stepping in a half eaten salmon.

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In summer this creek valley is an exciting, dangerous place, especially for a ten-pound poodle mix with a Napoleon complex. But today, with old growth canopy providing some protection from the rain, and the creek waters humming their calming song, I can relax and pretend that the creek is carrying away my blues.

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Aki is not relaxed. She stations herself a few feet in front of me as we wind around hundred foot high spruce trees, checking back often to make sure I am not about to do something stupid. Thinking that she smells danger, I look for the tracks of bears or wolves but only find one made this morning by a deer pivoting off the trail.

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I wonder what it would be like to spend your whole life in this little creek valley, smoking and drying salmon and deer meat to carry you through to next summer. After years of watching the creek bring salmon to your camp would you claim it as your god?

No Worries

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No rain.

No sunshine.

Just the little dog and I walking  toward the Perseverance basin.

No bears.

No deer.

Just three mountain goats hammering brush along the flanks of Mt. Juneau.

No drama.

Just one porcupine climbing up the north side of Mt. Maria within a few feet of the Basin Road trestle bridge.

No lingering flowers.

Just strings of shriveling Oregon grapes.

No worries.

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Swans

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Yesterday, twelve trumpeter swans plunked down on the waters of Twin Lakes. This morning most of them sleep with their long necks arcing out and back so their heads rest on their backs. A few feed, with their bottoms pointing skyward, on pondweeds. I lock Aki in the car and quietly move toward the big birds. A pair feeding just ten feet off shore ignore me and the mallards that paddle around them.

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Later, with Aki on a moraine trail, I think about the barnyard like aspect of my swan sighting. True, they just flew over 1500 miles from their breeding areas in north and western Alaska. They are probably too exhausted or hungry to respond to people on a nearby dog-walking trail.

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I remember the mute swans that crowded the Thames River on my visit to Eton. From a rented bicycle I watched birds as graceful and beautiful as today’s trumpter swans fight each other for access to ice cream cones on offer from tourists with tickets to Windsor Castle in their pockets.

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Thirty years ago, I watched a small family of swans break into flight when my skiff eased out of a small stream and onto a grass-lined lake in Western Alaska. Late afternoon sun brightened their feathers as they struggled to lift off the lake. In seconds, they were just dots in the blue sky. Even though today’s swan viewing and the one I enjoyed on the Thames allowed sufficient time to appreciate the grace and beauty of the lovely birds, only the brief visitation with tundra swans on that Western Alaskan lake seemed like a gift.

Mimics

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A raven, feathers fluffed up against the cold rain, stands exposed on a Gold Street light post. The pole has been scared so many times by climbing utility men that it looks as scruffy as the raven. I risk rain spattering my glasses to take several pictures of the bedraggled bird, wishing I had disabled the camera’s feature that announces each shutter snap with a beep. Raven stops preening itself and lets out a series of sounds that mimic my camera’s annoying beep.

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Aki drags me towards Gastineau Street. She is on fire to check out something carried on the wind. She remains engaged during the rest of the walk, taking extra care when patrolling the field of food shacks near the docks that are now closed for the season. While she searches the plot recently occupied by Little Manila, I try to photograph a sculpture of raven partially obscured by reddish maple leaves. Even though this raven is just a line drawing rendered in ribboned steel, then bolted to a parking garage, I wait for it to imitate the sound of someone welding together pieces of the new cruise ship dock.

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Faint Rainbows

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Photo bombed by Leaf

Last weekend’s snow caught out the berry bushes along Outer Point Trail. This morning some, weighed down with snow, partially block our way to the beach. Seeing crisp, green leaves entombed in frozen snow and the oranges and yellows of turning foliage emerging through cold, white clumps, I wonder if nature is struggling to adapt to our changing climate.

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Aki stops to sniff at a fresh set of deer tracks when sunlight suddenly brightens the muskeg meadow we pass through. It also reaches out into Lynn Canal, exciting a rainbow into existence. The bow arcs over Shaman Island and ends in a wall of gray clouds. Back home I will question ever seeing the rainbow as it appears as a faint smear of colors in the photos I took of the island.

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We find the other end of the rainbow when I stop on the way home to wrack seaweed at the North Douglas Island boat ramp. It slices across the face of Mendenhall Glacier and into Fritz Cove. I remember God’s promise to Noah never again to inundate the world with water. The recent accords on climate change may help God keep his promise. But even through the rainbow, I can see evidence of the glacier’s melting retreat.

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October Snows

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October snows drive some Alaskans south to the sun belt. Others retrieve their skis from storage. Either way, these first snows have power and if you believe, magic. Aki acts like a believer. This morning she patrols the Sheep Creek delta during a shower of wet October snow.

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I should have taken the little dog to a mountain meadow where five inches of white must cover the ground. She loves to slide her face through soft snow, emerging with the same blissful smile she displays while rolling in beaver scent or bear poo. But last night’s high tide has washed the delta clean of snow. She makes do with scents left on a few patches of high ground by passing dogs.

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On a channel marker, a bald eagle stares through the snow at Douglas Island. Behind her a large raft of mallards crowds against the shore while a seal prowls nearby waters. The seal has no chance of duck for breakfast but it still watches for an opportunity. Aki and I walk towards the creek mouth where another raft of ducks hunt for food. When the sky behind us fills with mallards, I look for the dog walker that must have spooked them. But the beach is empty so the seal must have made a play.

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