Category Archives: peaceful isolation

A Whale Dancing in the Sun

maplesAfter all my whining about the recent spate of wet weather I probably do not deserve this crisp, sunny day. Alaskans are supposed to suffer in silence. My only complaint on this walk through forest to the beach is that the fall color has peaked. The Douglas Maples show some color but only a few scarlet leaves still cling to beach side crab apple trees.

R and AkiAki is busy herding her charges—today another guy and me. We break through the woods and sit on a rocky shelf above Favorite Passage. Six harlequin ducks paddle their party-colored bodies along the shore until a sea lion cruises through. Out in the passage a humpback whale breaches and falls, breaches and falls, sending a gush of water upward each time he returns to the sea. He dances alone, without the presence of the tourist boats that had tracked him and his kind all summer. For this afternoon, it’s just Aki, our friend, a sea lion, colorful ducks, and a whale dancing in the sun.Slough

Aki is an Electron

Mt. JuneauAki and I are at cross-purposes. She works hard to keep her pack (she and I) together with another—two ladies and three Aki-sized dogs. I look for solitude.   The little dog’s loyalty defeats her as the gap grows between the gang of five and I. They are one molecule and I am the proton of another. Aki acts like an electron bouncing between the two. But, our bond is strongest so she constricts her orbit around me as I stop to photograph the glow of backlit skunk cabbage.Deer Cabbage

Change in the Wind

P1010481Today, unseen things on this mountain meadow bother Aki and I. Distracted by the wind that shakes elephant-eared skunk cabbage leaves, the little dog almost steps on a trail-side grouse. She doesn’t even react when the plump bird flutters to life and takes refuge in the crotch of a hemlock tree.

At first I welcome the wind because it blows away mosquitos and other bitting pests. Then it carries the sound of other hikers—-children who would rather be home watching TV than on the meadow; barking dogs; adults sharing the events of the past week. On the now friendly wind, Aki hears promises of the caress and maybe a chance to chase another dog. Her curmudgeonly owner hears only the disappearance of solitude.P1010478

Forest Calm

P1140298Small domes of rain water occupy the crotches of lupine and camp out on the open plains of ferns and this twisted stalk plant. We step over leaves and twigs scattered on the Eagle River Trail by yesterday’s storm. The mid-summer forest is again a place of peace.

With the understory plants in high summer foliage and moss coloring much of the standing trees, a watercolorist could capture the forest’s emotion with a few tubes of green pigment. Peace and calm come from the restful colors but also, perhaps, from the abundance of oxygen exhaled by the forest.

Mosquitos swarm me every time I stop to photograph the green. Normally a slapper, I try to honor their lives until they leave a line of irritating bumps along the bottom edge of my hat. Even after that I can only roll them off.

P1140319We heard some slight road noise at the beginning of this walk but deep in the forest only thrush song rises above the river’s white noise. Near a meadow dominated by purple lupine the thrush breaks cover to fly onto a spruce limb. She watches in silence until the little dog and I drop onto the meadow. If not for the bugs, I would wait in the green for her song.P1140309

Mystery

L1220510Like a detective trying to discover clues in an ancient crime scene, I try to puzzle out what made these faint tracks on the meadow snow. They wander across the snowy field like furrows set by an inattentive farmer. Crossing them are recognizable snow machine tracks left by someone who enjoyed banking his machine on steep creek banks, shooting over the shoulder of the big beaver house, and weaving through the bordering forest. Some, maybe the rabbits and deer that watched the show, would find the snow machine driver guilty of crimes. I don’t judge, just hope that the relatively short reach of the meadow will discourage a return.

L1220497I ski in the snow machine tracks while Aki sniffs about, pees here and there, but ignores the mystery tracks. This tells me that they were machine made. The mystery is solved mid-meadow, where a trail of two parallel wide grooves confirms that the tracks were made by four wheel all terrain vehicles. Stopping, I listen for silence—blood beating a tattoo in my ears, squawks of disturbed birds, then nothing. No wolf howling, rabbit crying, rifle firing, snowmachine whining. I can almost hear the slight breeze ruffling Aki’s ears.L1220514

The Meadow

P1130792It’s not a natural place to seek solitude—this confusion of spruce thickets and meadows drained by winding streams. The wild animals are not the problem, it being the heat of the day. Silent now in sleep, the otters, weasels, and mice make their tracks at night. It’s the road that brought us here.  More, it’s the telephone wires that cut across the place’s heart. I can almost hear the buzz of conversation they carry.

P1130800Away from the wires, there is enough quiet, between passing caravans, to allow contemplation of shapes made by the Halloween shadows of naked alders cast on mounded snow or by those same branches lifting up their children to the sun. P1130807

 

Skiing at First Light

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERANo one but Aki and I can hear the bass gurgle of settling lake ice. The sun is only a sliver of irritating light; it’s main body held beneath the Thunder Mountain Ridge by a deep blue sky. The sun quickly replace dusk with day on Mendenhall Lake as I slip into the skiing rhythm.  Wondering whether Aki is disappointed by the absence of other dogs and their people, I ask, “Are you bored with me, little dog?” She ignores the question.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe ski several kilometers toward the glacier.  As is true of movie stars, the river of ice looks best when viewed from a distance when the early morning light can not reveal its pitted, dirty surface. It slowly creeps behind a low peninsula of rock on our approach.  Aki breaks from the trail when we are within 50 meters of the peninsula. She did the same when at this place on our last circumnavigation of the lake. This time I follow her even though my movement sends deep linear cracks radiating through the ice. While the little dog samples the smell that drew her, I look at a willow, reaching into a blue sky with branches covered in snow white catkins.  Should this blooming pussy willow raise my spirits with its promise of spring or serve as a warning of deteriorating ice conditions?  The Juneau temperature will climb into the high 30’s today as it did yesterday.  Only the nightly drop into the teens keeps the lake skiable. If a Pacific low pushes our high pressure back to the Yukon, rain bearing clouds will turn it into a soupy mess. Then, the willow will leaf out in privacy, while Aki and I look for other signs of spring in the old growth. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Two Sides to Solitude

P1050889While skiing along Eagle River at sunset, we stop to watch seals, driftwood, and small pans of ice move downriver on the ebbing tide. As I always do when seeing a seal in river in winter, I wonder why they enter salmon-less waters on the flood tide. Unlike me, they can’t be seeking solitude for they usually travel in company. My volunteer job at the local hospital this week made me look deeper at the meaning of solitude, which assumes the shape of loneliness for patients during slow moving weekend days. As long as solitude promises me peace through isolation I will seek it in the company of my little dog; hoping it’s isolation will provide curative rest if I ever spend the weekend in a hospital bed remembering a seal gazing up at me from river waters painted by a winter sunset. P1050890

Schedule Time for Solitude

P1120919In her book. Silence, Sara Maitland recommends creating little pockets of solitude by taking walks over ground seldom used by others. I wanted to follow her advice today but wind and rain drove Aki and I into the wooded ruins of the old Treadwell Mines. We found other dog walkers there but they were wrapped up in too much foul weather gear to sing in the new year or even speak. P1120927

Ms. Maitland convinced me that everyone should dedicate some time to silence on January 1. After morning coffee or tea, bundle up and walk through some noiseless place. Don’t fill the earned silence with thoughts of the past or your hopes and fears for this year. Enjoy the void or let ideas bubble up from your subconscious stew. Watch, as we did, your local winter ducks fly urgently over the water or gulls move through the sky at a leisurely pace. Ignore your ghosts, for us those of old Treadwell miners or the avalanche gun that fires rounds across Gasteneau Channel to bring down unsafe loads of snow from the slopes of Mt. Roberts. Taste the resulting peace even if rain swollen streams carry eroded land to the sea. Bring it home.    P1120921

It’s Best During a Storm

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAki trots ahead along a wet, 12 inch wide plank trail that crosses this mountain meadow. Still wearing her red waterproof wrap, she ignores the wind driven rain. I fall behind while trying to photograph ancient, twisted pines in front of tendrils of mountain clouds. As usual, capturing the most seductive view would require pointing my camera into the wind and rain but I can capture Aki trotting in the other direction.

I don’t know about the little dog but I am drawn to mountain meadows on these last days of summer. They are best during the drama of a storm when rain water glistens on plants in fall color and on sweet blue berries suspended inches from the wet meadow by tough little plants.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAFeet encased in Extra Tuff boots and the rest of me in rain gear, I move away from the boardwalk and harvest the low bush blue berries. Aki wanders about then returns without her rain wrap. Snapping out of the zen like berry picking state, I search for the wrap, finding it on the boardwalk. Stuffing it my jacket pocket I lead the little dog on to a less visited portion of the meadow and fall upon a forest of miniature blue berry bushes, all bearing ripe fruit.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAForgetting about Aki’s wrap and the weather I reduce the world to this field of blues. As I pick the wind blows back my rain jacket hood. Rain soaks my hat and Aki. I don’t notice until standing up for a stretch. Shivering, Aki fixes me with a “this isn’t so much fun anymore” look. Leaving behind unharvested wealth, I head back to the car with a wet dog and several cups of berries.