Category Archives: Southeast Alaska

Surprises

beachThe appearance of bare pavement on Chicken Ridge didn’t surprise me this morning. Yesterday a warm, wet storm melted our beautiful blanket of snow off the ridge. This morning I hung up the snow shovel and took the little dog to one of the North Douglas trails.

The storm hosed off this area too so we had easy walking on a thin layer of melting snow. The fresh tracks of a wolf that had climbed up a seldom-used side trail surprised me. Hunters have been complaining about a wolf pack hammering the deer on Douglas Island. Is this the track of one of their scouts? I can’t find the tracks of a panicked deer or rabbit.

rainbow         A large raft of goldeneye ducks and scoters move nervously away from shore when as we reach the beach. Behind them a rainbow arcs up and away from Shaman Island and then fades to gray.

whale         The day’s last surprise comes on the ride home when we spot a lone humpback whale feeding near Smuggler’s Cove. It is rare to see any whales this time of year. All the fertile humpbacks are in Maui or on their way to that breeding ground. But on a December day a year or so ago I spotted one in Smuggler’s Cove. Today’s whale is too far away to photograph and only shows itself briefly each time before disappearing like the rainbow into the gray. But like the lone wolf tracks, each plume of vapor it expels provides proof that this place is still pure enough for wild animals.

Watching the Watchers

lily pads

This morning, another storm sweeps through Juneau. Its rain discourages trips outside. But, I have good rain gear and a dog determined to have her daily adventure so we drive out to North Douglas where a trail meanders through protecting old growth trees. At the trail head, heavy drops slam into Aki’s fleece wrap. She gives a full body shake and trots into the woods where the spruce/hemlock canopy keeps out the worst of the storm. I think the rain has stopped until the trail takes us to a beaver pond where emerging water lily fronds, still infant brown, curl toward the gray sky, accepting the rain drop battering as if it were punishment from God.

ducks

Crossing through more woods, we reach the beach where aggressive surf hammers the gravel. It releases a salt sea smell that we can only enjoy when a westerly stirs the fjord waters of Lynn Canal. Crows stand at the tide line and stare at surf like a bloke might stare at football on TV. A small raft of parti-colored harlequin ducks appears and disappears in the offshore swell. Four form a line and turn to watch the little dog just before they slip behind a wave. As is always the case, they watch us and we them.

crow

Beauty and Pain

mountain

On a day with rain low and snow high we drive to connected mountain meadows where winter is enjoying one last rager before springs takes over. Falling snow adds to a skiable cover on the muskeg. When snow stops and the sun breaks loose of cloud cover it animates the tundra like meadows. Aki and I have to squint our eyes against the glare. Snow blindness conditions. I’m reminded of the day trips to the mountains behind Los Angeles “for the snow” I took when a child. There was beauty and pain then too, both provided by winter. The beauty most North Americans know: sun enriching white ground and the evergreens poking into a crayon blue sky. The pain was as simple: cold felt by bare hands or ones covered in cotton gloves. After an adulthood living in Alaska, I accept pain as a price for beauty. But it always surprised me when I was a California boy.

reflection

Fishing in the Rain

eagle

Another day of low clouds, mild temperatures and rain. Such conditions never dampens Aki’s love of the North Douglas forest trails to the beach, For me, it is a day for hearing, not seeing special things. The jackhammer .rhythm of a sapsucker provides a pace. Overhead, just above the canopy, the leader of a line of geese gives a single honk. We startle a small raft of mallards and they burst up from an opening in ice made by a stream flow into a muskeg pond. They are gone before I can see more than their characteristic wing pattern. On the beach, when we are just abeam of Shaman Island, I hear a splash like a child makes by tossing a large rock into a pond. Near the island a bald eagle, talon deep in the ocean, struggles to free itself from the water. Two other eagles cry and circle around the scene. The partially submerged eagle manages to fly off but without anything in its talons to show for it. I think of the men and women on nearby False Outer Point, who also fish in the rain for king salmon.

Beaver Logging

Aki 2Aki and I pass some new fallen alders along the glacial moraine trail. Large wood chips, marked by beaver teeth, surround the resulting tree stubs. We never heard or seen a beaver drop a tree until today.

beaver teethThe snow is gone but a strip of smooth ice covers the trail. I slide down it while Aki checks the peemail. She sniffs something on one of the beaver dams near Norton Lake and then starts a wide sweep of the area. When a tree crashes onto the frozen lake, the little dog flies across the ice to investigate. I grow uncomfortable waiting for her to return, thinking about what a beaver’s teeth can do to a tree trunk. But Aki dashes onto the ice before I can head over to the beaver’s logging site.

AkiAn hour later, while we circled one last lake in the troll woods and hear another tree crash. Two years ago Aki broke through this lake’s ice when we heard several beaver tail slaps. I thought I had lost her that time. Today she runs to where the tree lays on the lake ice but is back before I can worry.ice

Spring and Famine

mountain

The varied thrush told me it is spring, as did the warmish temperature, sun, and a brace of eagles circling low over Chicken Ridge. The eagles warned that it is also a time of famine for the big birds by hunting cats in the neighborhood. Aki and I headed to the Fish Creek delta to check its grassy wetlands for migrating waterfowl.

geeseThe parking lot was empty when we arrived so it was no surprise to hear the complaints of unseen ducks and geese when we approached the pond. We spot hundreds of nervous birds through a screen of trees on the pond’s edge. Some sound like geese, but not our Canada residents. Even though I am hundreds of meters away, the birds explode into the air when I start taking pictures. In minutes they are gone.

Mt. JuneauAs punishment for displacing the birds, I find the glacier hidden behind clouds. Maybe it is not punishment. The clouds reveal enough of the ice field mountains to create beautiful reflections in the waters of Smuggler’s Cove.

 

Auras

aki

This morning Aki again exhibits her fascination with land otters. I just stopped trying to ski on a mostly bare meadow normally covered with deep snow this time of year. Now, I’m walking into the otter country. Aki is ahead, already on thinning stream ice, nose now, tail up, temporarily deaf to my command to return.

Aki 2

This is not a life or death situation but I am still worried. If she brakes through the ice, I can rescue her. But, what if she noses into one of their den doors? She does look lovely in the early morning sun, which highlights the edges of her fur, covering her with an aura of light. The sun does the same thing and a little more to the streamside willows and alders. They glow and sparkle.

willowGiving up, I turn and walk toward the big beaver house neared their ruined dam, stretching to the braking point the invisible tether that connects me to the little dog. In seconds she snaps back and walks beside me on the way to the abandoned beaver town.

cranberries

Camping Cove

 

Rock plugI tell myself to remember the way the pebbles, frozen together by last might’s freeze, slowly give way beneath my boots. Otherwise the memory of the sensation will disappear under the deluge of Technicolor images I see every time I look out to sea.

AkiAki and I walk toward Camping Cove over sunny beaches and through dappled, forested headlands. Inshore barrier islands, thick with old growth spruce and hemlock trees, frame views of Lynn Canal and the snow covered Chilkat Mountains.
blueberry

Aki flushes a grouse, her first. I watch it fly into a snag where it seems to disappear into the rough bark. Later we will hear the slow hammering sound of a woodpecker. More surprising, I hear the long tones of a varied thrush. The thrush song, heard on a sunny day, while standing on bare trail, might be the final confirmation of winter’s end. The bird might have been fooled by the swelling leaf buds on spring-green blue berry brush. We might have more ice and snow. Winter can’t be over. There is still more three weeks before the spring equinox.roots

Decay and Art

pilingsAcross the channel from the Treadwell ruins, the boring buildings on the Rock Dump port form a community of colored boxes. Cheap and almost durable, they do the job, but nothing more; make no attempt to lift a viewer’s spirits. On the Treadwell side, the forces of decay have nibbled away at the symmetry of wooden pilings so they now squat like Naguchi inspired chess pieces on the exposed sand. In the woods, similar forces pit complex patterns into the iron pipes, gears, and valves that once served the gold mine. They even attack alder and cottonwood trees by covering graceful limbs with electric green moss. On the channel, decay delivers more beauty than architects. If only we could harness decay or organize bacteria into flying squadrons of artists.moss

No Enhancements

rain drops 2

Nothing enhances the natural beauty of the rain forest today. Our latest extended thaw and rain melted away all winter enhancements. We are a month away from spring flowers and bird song. Looking into the forest from the beach is like watching a movie star buying butter at the store. She walks the dairy aisle in mom jeans and a tee shirt, not the figure enhancing dresses she wears for the cameras, but her grace of movement still demands attention. Even with her face bare, the store clerk is drawn to the expression in her eyes. Likewise, the forest that Aki and I walk through this morning has the fine bone structure of old growth spruce, genuine sparkle of rain drops striking a forest pond, and a sense of peace hard to find in Hollywood.

rain drops