Category Archives: Cross Country Skiing

Grouse, Lynx, and a River

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The grouse is a surprise, as was the pair of lynx that crossed languidly across the Klondike Highway in front of us a few says ago. The bird appears to nest in snow on the forest floor near a Chadburn Lake ski trail. I test the extent of its privacy zone by skiing closer and closer until it flies into a nearby pine tree.

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We ski on through the mixed aspen/pine forest to a Yukon River overlook. Not too many years ago, I paddled a canoe under this bluff with a Swedish friend. The Yukon was a source of fear then as it is today. In the canoe, I entertained a little fear of the river’s power that moved us forward as the glacier silt it carried scraped against the canoe’s submerged skin. Today, I fear that the ice beneath the river’s snow covering would be too weak to hold my weight. It is a silly fear. I only touch the river with my eyes.

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Later in the day we ski do on the river near the Moss Lake dam, reassured by the presence of newly laid ski tracks. The tracks keep us close to the shore. Across the river, dark clouds block out the sun, bringing drama before the next snow squall.

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Mt. Mac

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Mt. MacIntyre is Whitehorse is a world class cross country ski area. On a sunny day like today, when the temperature is near freezing, it provides a ski experience that justifies the effort to get here from Juneau.

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Stopping to enjoy the sunlight bouncing off the heavy layer of trailside snow, I spot a large squirrel drop down from a white spruce tree and pose on an upturned tree root wad. Unlike the red squirrels in Juneau who can’t tolerate Aki or I, this guy seems to enjoy my attention. He doesn’t chit a challenge or toss down an empty spruce cone. He just strikes a series of ten second poses, like a life drawing model.

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MV LeConte

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Leaving Aki at home with friends this morning, her other human and I board an Alaska ferry for Skagway, Alaska. Many tourists, international and otherwise, ride the ferries up and down the inside passage. But this time of year, the boat carries only locals. Some are heading home to Whitehorse. Most, from Juneau, will ski tomorrow on the Buckwheat cross-country ski race.

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During the six hour boat ride from Juneau to Skagway I spot few people looking out the window even through winter sun sparkles off the waters of Lynn Canal and makes the beautiful Chilkat Mountains even more lovely. In summer, on days when low clouds hide the mountains and flat light turn the canal waters leaden, the ferry windows will still be lined with gawking visitors. The locals could take a lesson.

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Soft Ice and Silence

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Aki dashes between her other human and me, finding good, firm footing on the snow-covered lake. The number of parked cars near the trailhead led me to expect a crowd on the lake. But all who used the cars to drive here are skiing in the campground. That trail, set by a snowmachine over a paved road, offers little danger and only one view of the glacier. If the wind isn’t blowing across it, we usually chose the lake. Its trail gives you an unobstructed view of the river of ice for more than a kilometer and a half. We have only enjoyed the view for a minute before finding a patch of open water, apparently made when the snowmachine groomer’s roller punched through the ice.

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We ski on toward the glacier, looking for soft spots and finding none. Torn cloud fragments wreath Mt. McGinnis and Thunder Mountain. If the lake is groaning under its twenty inch thick blanket of snow, we don’t hear it. We don’t hear anything but Aki’s panting and the scraping of our skis over the slightly icy track.

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The groomer’s snowmachine approaches after we make the turn back to the car. After it growls past. a trio of skiers slips onto the lake followed by several more. I am not surprised. Like I have many times in the past, the incomers have waited for the heavy machine to test the ice before venturing on to it.

Crazy

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Crazy weather little dog. We just drove through thick snow flurries to Eagle River. Now, ten minutes after leaving the trailhead, sunlight touches the ski trail through the old growth forest. The trees, freshly burdened with new, wet snow, start shedding their loads. I want to write that they sighed following the release but only silence accompanied the cascades of snow. Aki is in hog heaven—a place she defines as having snow soft enough to roll in but still able to support her weight. I’m pretty happy too on skis that move smoothly down the trail and the chance to glimpse blue sky through the forest canopy.

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The trail takes us in and out of the forest and then onto a muskeg meadow spotted with haggard-looking spruce. Some of the trees are as bare a power poles. Long strands of goat’s beard lichen hang from the living ones. Snow clouds move in after we leave the meadow and whiten the little dog and I until we reach the car. Before leaving, I walk onto the Eagle River Bridge and spot of raven’s blackness soaring through a thick snow shower. Before the bird disappears into the riverside spruce, I snap two or three photos of it. But it doesn’t appear in any of the pictures that I uploaded onto my computer. That is no strange than the weather.

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Blowing Snow, Giggling Kids

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We are back on Mendenhall Lake skiing into a brisk breeze. Blowing snow obscures parts of the mountains above the glacier and has filled in the tracks of those who skied here earlier in the day. Aki tears ahead into the northern, In seconds she catches her other human, Minutes later, we all turn around and finish our ski session on the the nearby campground’s protected track. There we find another storm, this one of preschoolers who giggle and move in our direction. Some try to ski. Most drag their equipment toward the cars that brought them. I lift the little dog off the snow before she can dash around the kids, barking her invitation to play. She treats small people like shy puppies.

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Icy Taunts

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It’s almost March. Tomorrow or the next day a Pacific storm will likely hammer Juneau with heavy snow or worse—rain. But this morning, on Mendenhall Lake, it’s almost desert-warm. Someone has set a five-kilometer track on the ice, which we follow toward the glacier. Aki dashes from her other human and I, stopping occasionally to take a cooling snow bath.

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It’s hard to concentrate on anything but sparkling snow, the blue-green glacier ice, and the saw tooth ridge of mountains that rise out of the Juneau ice field. I think about  To Make A Poem by Alberta Turner, a book that urges poets to tap into the subconscious for inspiration. But my subconscious can’t complete with all the natural beauty. Only when I complete the apex of the track loop and turn my back to the glacier, can I yield to the meditative slide and slide rhythm of Nordic skiing. But I sense the glacier leering behind me, ready to strike a stunning pose if I turn around. On a rising north wind, I can almost hear the river of ice taunt, “I’ve calved more metaphors than your sad little subconscious will produce in your lifetime.”

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First Light

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The sun rising over Gastineau Channel this morning makes Juneau look like a tropical paradise by flooding the tidal flow with orange light. Aki and I know the truth. Its early January in Alaska and the temperature is yet to rise above 12 degrees F. We head north out the road to visit a large meadow where wolves hunt, beavers sleep through the day, and otters play.

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My skis barely crack the crusty snow that covers the meadow. Aki just trots on top of it. The snow won’t be a challenge for the little dog. She dashes about, checking the pee mail. I break through a screen of willows to reach the beaver’s home stream and then follow the tracks of a single wolf to their door. Aki sniffs tracks made by the beavers last night and heads further up stream.

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Several nights of clear, calm, and cold weather have allowed frost feathers to build on the meadow’s alders, pines, and spruce trees. The feathers on a nearby stand of trees flash from inanimate gray to flashing prisms when struck for the first time by the early morning sun. I pull off my mittens and make many attempts to capture the richness and sparkle until my hands numb. If I my hands are cold, what about Aki’s unprotected feet. But the little dog seems fine. She doesn’t even lift a paw off the snow while she waits from me to return to the skiing.

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Tough, Faithful Little Dog

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It’s two degrees Fahrenheit. There’s little breeze to produce a lower wind chill. But the warming sun is at our backs as we ski over lake ice toward the glacier. The bare-pawed Aki doesn’t seem to notice the cold. But her people worry that their hands will never regain feeling. Even though they are encased in my heaviest gauntlet gloves, I can’t warm my fingers without pulling them into the gloves’ palm area where they form a numb ball.

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The little dog dashes back and forth between her humans after we reach the apex of a looped trail and turn into the sun. Thanks to the perfect snow conditions, I manage to pull ahead of Aki’s other human. Confused, for this never happens, the little dog turns back the way we had come and runs at full speed toward the glacier where she expects to find me doddling along. Eventually Aki’s other human catches her and together they head toward the trailhead. Only when she hears my whistle, does the poodle-mix stop looking over her shoulder.

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Hammering Wind

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We woke this morning to light snow falling, a thermometer reading of 7 degrees F. (minus 14 C,), and a thirty-mile an hour wind that hammered Chicken Ridge. At this temperature, the snow lacks the weight to resist wind. It just drifts away. The house humans dress in our old dog mushing clothes, stuff Aki into a doggie version of Walls insulated overalls, and head north to the Eagle River. On the road, our cross country skis rattle in their rack in wind that shakes our Subaru like a martini. The little poodle mix whines as she rides like she is in a hurry to herd her people together on the ski trail.

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I spot the sun’s ghost, a yellowish disk softened by blowing snow, high above the river. Once on skis, the stiff wind pushes me over snow now covered with forest debris ripped from trees by last night’s 70 knot winds. That ends as soon as we enter the sheltering forest, which protects us from the worst of the wind. If it were warmer, I would have taken more pictures of the river filled with soft ice pans or clouds of snow not left to settle on the riverine meadow.

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