Winter hangs here on the Yukon River but, if the weatherman can be believed, it will soon be pushed upriver by spring. Perhaps that is why we have this beautiful cross country ski complex to ourselves.  The sun breaks through filmy overcast but brings wind rather than warmth.  It’s a rolling trail and we look forward to hill climbs in hope that heat generated by effort will thaw our faces and fingers. It works but wind chill built up during the following descent removes returns us back to zero.

We return to the car on a sheltered forest trail lined with scrubby spruce and  stately aspen, the beauty of both brought out by dappling sun. An enormous train of dogs, adults and children begins to pass us, lead by two large jowled hounds. A tired father dragging along a trailer sled loaded with twins brings up the rear.