Tag Archives: Juneau

Sapsucker Insurrection

mountains

It’s early morning on a tidal meadow but we could be walking through downtown Los Angeles at sunrise. Canada geese, all locals, huddle like the homeless in protected dips of the meadow. Some make low complaints, as refugees from mental health treatment sometimes mutter to themselves while pushing a shopping cart of castoffs down the street.

geese

If the geese represent the homeless of our cities, Aki and I are seen by them as police officers; my camera a baton to encourage them to move along from the protected doorways where they huddled for the night. Aki tries to ignore the big birds while I photograph them. I also take pictures of still-white peaks of the Chilkat Range reflected on the surface of Eagle River.

sapsucker

Tired of making geese nervous, I lead my little dog into the woods where we are greeted by a red-breasted sapsucker hammering away at a metal trail sign. I saw one of his brothers doing the same to a “No Motor Vehicles on the Trail” sign yesterday. Are the beautiful woodpeckers uniting against the man? As cops Aki and I should investigate further but the sapsucker flies off before I can question him.

Easter Morning on the Meadow

mountains

Because people are coming over for a holiday dinner, Aki will get a bath today. I hide this from her. The little dog has a love/hate relationship with soap and water. She hates the bath but loves to dash around the house when freshly clean. She also loves to explore tidal meadows—a place she is unlikely to leave without mud and muck imbedded in her poodle fur.

meadow and mountain

We drop down from a well-used trail to the meadow and hear a series of “rock dropping into a well” sounds. Ducks start migrating over our heads, at first in one and twos, and then in dozens. I blame the Labrador retriever that went down the trail ahead of us for flushing the birds until I spot him heading back to the trailhead with his owner. Do the math Dan. The sound of something being plunked into water followed by ducks in frantic flight equals crab pot placements. Someone just dropped a line of crab pots into a chunk of Smuggler’s Cove covered with waterfowl. We won’t have much to watch when we reach the cove overlook so I snap pictures of fleeing mallards as they pass into front of the Mendenhall Towers and Mount McGinnis.

It’s a day for rain forest dwellers to cash in on an early spring day with sun and temperatures in the 50’s. Some with boats spend this warm Easter Morning dropping crab pots. Others troll for feeder king salmon off False Outer Point. Many, like Aki and I, just look at things.

We run into a group of serious bird watchers with serious spotting scopes and serious tripods for mounting them. Understandably, they are not happy to receive Aki’s happy, if loud greeting. I would have told them where the Smuggler Cove ducks now feed but did not want to intrude.

eagle

The little dog and I, we spend this holiday morning with sun on our faces listening to eagle song and duck complaints. I wonder at the beauty so accessible to one with eyes and interest; the little dog rolls in something rich in sea smells that last night’s tide left in the meadow grass. Thank God for the day and that Aki is scheduled for a bath.

ducks

Sun Ghost

ghost

The flat, grey light doesn’t diminish the little dog’s excitement on this hike up the Perseverance Trail. Yesterday’s heavy rain hasn’t washed away the scents she loves to sample. I carry a camera with little enthusiasm. We walk over familiar ground unenhanced by sunlight, frost, or even rain. As if to lift my mood, the sun’s ghost appears just above the outstretched limb of a cottonwood tree. A robin settles in the tree. I snap their picture before the ghost departs.

Have You Ever Seen a Whale?

channel ducks

On wet winter days

when only pastel craftsmen homes

remind us of spring and

drenched ravens harmonize

with a barking dog

an imaginative man

finds the will

to pull on rain gear

push outdoors

ignore drizzle

soaking his sensible

if ridiculous hat.

He skips down crooked steps

like one who

might see whales in the channel

spot eagles near the moored black cod boats

just make out spring-white goats on Mt. Juneau.

He wonders on the way

what imaginatives do

in southern cities

where robins always sing

to a cloudless sky

crime and traffic

provide the drama

and no one has even seen a whale.

Acting

river 2

The forest, this gray morning, reminds me of an actor awoken too early by noisy neighbors. The neighbors, clouds and clouds of pine siskins, never stop their shick-shick song. The forest, almost monochrome in the flat light, looks sleepy, maybe even grumpy. Sunlight breaks through the marine layer when we leave the woods for meadows drained by the Eagle River. Small groups of Canada geese, their honks blocking out the siskin’s song, stir in the yellow meadow grass. The geese fly off when we are still hundreds of meters away, heading toward the white Chilkat Range before landing on the river’s opposite side.

geese

We spook a flock of American robins, which settle in a small alder. It is too early for them to sing their love songs but their presence en mass is an incontrovertible proof of spring’s arrival. Another proof is just across the river. A collection of white fronted geese take a break from migration on a sand bar. Some stand on one leg while one is sprawled, neck extended and wings stretched out to its sides on the sand.

chilkat

Aki doesn’t chase a clutch of Canada geese that we stumble upon just before returning to the forest. They walk slowly across the trail, honking in a frustrated tone. The little dog just watches them take flight. God dog.

If the forest were an actor, he must have done his toilet, had his coffee and cigarette, read favorable reviews because the place thrives in morning light. Shafts of it enhance the electric green color of ground moss and make the forest’s watercourses sparkle. He had better savor the moment like a seasoned veteran. Wind driven rain will be raking him this afternoon.

river

Trying Not to Take Sides

cove

Aki ignored the tanner crab shell until I took an interest in it. It was on its back; something with shape, substance, but little weight and no smell. The later explains Aki’s lack of interest.

We find many crab shell husks. The Dungeness ones are best because you can’t find a point of egress for the former occupant. (This tanner escaped by popping the top off his carapace.) But the Tanner husk that Aki noses with distain is unusual because it still has its delicate claws. I admire their slender pincers and walk on. My little dog stays by the shell giving me a look that would convey judgmental surprise on a human face. She only agrees to follow me when I try to photograph her next to her prize. Aki is not in the mood for modeling.

eagle 2

It’s almost low tide. A hundred gulls, made bright white by the low angled light, rest in a thin line on the sand. They mimic the light enhanced Chilkat Range on the horizon. When they rise in a porous cloud I realize that we walked over the place they vacated yesterday morning. Now, the little dog and I walk across the gulls’ horizon. Two bald eagles fly from nearby spruce trees out over Smuggler Cover. I turn away for a moment. When I look back, the placid mallards and scoters we just passed are nervous. A raft flies off, passing one of the eagles on an opposite trajectory. That eagle lands on a sandbar and looks around it like a tourist looking for the bus stop. The other one hunches over something on another sandbar, bobbing his head like the big birds do when the rend flesh. I can’t see what he holds in his talons but know it must be food. In minutes two crows land on the bar and stand at a safe (respectful?) distance from the eagle.

eagle

As the crows wait for scraps, I once again wonder at how much violence is committed in this place we humans find so beautiful. I honor the eagle for his skill in plucking a meal from the sea, understand his need to feed, respect the role of hunter and prey, yet find myself rooting for those lower on the food chain. I could almost pray that the molted tanner crab will survive his brief, naked existence on the ocean floor, until again protected by a hard shell.

crab

Note to Self: They are not human

eagle

I struggle not to attribute human attributes to the wild animals Aki and I see on our walks. These eagles are making it tough. They share the top of a spruce that offers a great view of the Mendenhall River and wetlands. When I approach with my old camera ready they stiffen and appear to pose, as if for a military poster. After taking a few bracketing shots, I shift twice to capture them from other angles. More posing.

eagles

Just before the little dog and I move down the beach, one eagle gives out a screech and glides over to the river. Through my unfocused lens I see it hit the water, talons extend. The splash sparkles in early morning light. Pulling out from the shallow dive, my model pulls up and arcs closely around us and then flies back to his perch. From there he seems to offer to do it all again I didn’t capture his glory. As a parting gift, he screeches out a warning. As it fades we hear a wing of panicked Canada geese that soon fly over our heads.

wetlands

Winter Cusp

mountain

mountainDuring this cusp of winter, rain forest natives offer hope of spring. Blue berry brush blush to an almost purple shade of red as their leaf buds swell and crack open. The willow branches turn orange before leafing out. Even the canopies of red alder trees show color. This morning, as sunshine burns the fog out of the Gold Creek Valley, only the balsam poplar still wear winter colors. They stand with their gray and black bones exposed, as they have since stripped of yellow leaves last fall.

mountains

The poplar bones emergence from fog is the most beautiful seen so far today. When we left home, the gray still closed off Chicken Ridge but we could see blue sky breaking out above Douglas Island. Something animated the fog. Discrete patches climbed between the spruce trees on Mt. Roberts while a cylinder of grey hovered on the edge of the Franklin Street stairs. Now I wonder if animation is the last step before dissipation in the life of fog.

eagle

We climb above the creek on a path that offers views of mountains over the stoic poplars. Mr. Roberts and its buddies, freshly dusted by last night’s snows, muscle their way out of the dying cloud clover. With eyes trained by a week of rain and cloud diminished light, the mountains look too rich, like the window display of a Swedish konditori. Bald eagles add to the opulence of scene. Several sun themselves in trailside poplar trees. We drop back to the creek and find four more around something emerging from the snow. Jumpy, they fly into separate poplars to wait for us to leave.

eagles

I cheer on blueberries and that the other Southeast plants that have already committed to spring. But I respect the poplars’ reticence. They teach patience and hope. The trees will wait with knurled limbs exposed until the northern tilt of the earth banishes frost. Then, during the first warm days of summer they become natural censers. Their leaf buds will swell and burst to perfume Downtown Juneau with balsam incense.

Tell me it is spring

causewayWe stand on the causeway edge, two guys in sensible rain gear, not caring how clumsy we look compared to the sleek scoters and ducks that float just offshore.

“You been out to Shaman Island today?”

“No, I come down here on a good low tide, work over to the point and back before the tides floods in. Use to have coffee with Mr. ______ when he had a cabin over there.”

He bends down to pet Aki, sliding his other hand down the walking stick he had just carved from alder wood. When he rights himself, I can see that salt spray had reddened the whites of his eyes.

“It was low tide at 8:30 so she will be smoking in now to cover this (pointing to the causeway) soon.”

The rock and sand path to Shaman Island looks to be a good three feet out of the water so I decided to sneak over and back before the tide covers it.

scotersThe wind sweeps across the causeway, holding Aki’s windward earflap straight up in the air. Every few steps she stops and shakes her head to return the flap to its proper place. The wind and Aki continue the battle until we reach Shaman Island where a single American Robin feeds on a patch of green grass. We have seen and heard other proofs of spring on the walk like varied thrust song and swollen buds on the blue berry brush. But this robin, if it sang, could make me believe the calendar and its assertion that winter is over. It stays silent.

closing

In minutes we need to start back across the causeway. As predicted, the tide is smoking in. Small fingers of water pulse and retreat beneath our feet as we cross over to safety. When we reach higher ground I hear eagle complaints and see two mature bald eagles, white heads and tails book ending chestnut bodies, glide together and apart, together and apart, like flirts dancing in the wind. If he had not left, the man with red-rimmed eye might have told me that bald eagles mate for life and that these a the mating mood.

eagles

Mellowing Fog

glacierThanks to the fog, Aki and I are alone on the Nugget Falls trail. One couple passed us when we were still near the visitor’s center, disappeared into the grey, reappeared and then melted away as they returned to the parking lot. Aki doesn’t enjoy the solitude brought by the thick blanket. She hunts for other people and dogs, sometimes roaming farther away than normal. But I have an advantage over the little dog. I can imagine the glacier and Mendenhall Towers that rise above the ice. We both can hear the falls but my mind sees its braided courses plunge into the lake. It can also see mountain goats, white fur tinged yellow, feeding above the falls. This requires more faith, given the fickleness of wild animals.

Goat

When the fog lift I can see the glacier’s foot, the falls, and three pure white dots that my telephone lens transforms into mountain goats. An adult and kid feed without consideration of the little dog or I. The other adult looks down on us before he too feeds. They know neither dog nor man can climb their steep hillside.

baby

Recently, someone had a picnic dinner at the base of the falls and left the Styrofoam tray that once held his pork tenderloins. I know his initials, W.C., because he also dropped his Alaska Airlines boarding pass for a flight from Seattle. On a sunny day I might get angry while carrying W.C.’s garbage back to the visitor’s center trash can and imagine him as a littering yob who eats unhealthy food in the presence of goat and glacier. But walking through country made indistinct by low clouds, it is easier on my heart to assume that wind had ripped away W.C.’s trash.Aki