Category Archives: peaceful isolation

No Enhancements

rain drops 2

Nothing enhances the natural beauty of the rain forest today. Our latest extended thaw and rain melted away all winter enhancements. We are a month away from spring flowers and bird song. Looking into the forest from the beach is like watching a movie star buying butter at the store. She walks the dairy aisle in mom jeans and a tee shirt, not the figure enhancing dresses she wears for the cameras, but her grace of movement still demands attention. Even with her face bare, the store clerk is drawn to the expression in her eyes. Likewise, the forest that Aki and I walk through this morning has the fine bone structure of old growth spruce, genuine sparkle of rain drops striking a forest pond, and a sense of peace hard to find in Hollywood.

rain drops

Showing Off

glacier

Clarity of light and a sense of ground relaxing; those are the things I appreciate this morning on the Fish Creek delta. The ground is still solid thanks the last night’s freeze but there is no wind and the temperature is climbing above 40 degrees F. Some ice covers parts of the pond but the rest of winter’s work lays scattered in sharp-sided chunks of crystal on the golden meadow’s grass.

fog Aki runs this way and that, ears flapping, chasing ghosts. I hear a splash and think of the otter that tried to coax her onto the pond ice during our last visit. Opaque fog rises from the meadows like cold smoke. The little dog gives up on a promising scent to follow me out to the creek mouth where the snow-white Mendenhall Towers seem to be showing off in the morning sun. This is what full sun exposure can do to a rain forest dweller—it can turn us anthropomorphic. It makes me want to think of God as a human mother figure because this morning of Hers has given me comfort, beauty, and peace.

pond

A Peaceful Place

ice

Mendenhall lake is a peaceful place this morning: silent, wet and gray except for the aquamarine glacial ice. The lake ice is useless for skiing after a day or two of rain. We had better success on the campground trails. Aki walks chest deep in slush, apparently ready to give the lake a try. But her people find it enough to stand near the shore and watch the glacier disappear behind a descending cloud.

mt

Heard but not Seen

ice

With the tide out at Outer Point, the table is set for the birds and other animals that harvest tidal zone. We should see eagles, ravens and maybe mink or otter. We hear the whooshing pulse of a raven’s wings over our heads, cheeping song of feeding chickadees, a sea lion’s snort than splash, a loud crash from the woods as if made by a panicked deer, and eagle complaints. We almost step on the remains of an otter’s sea urchin dinner and spot the sea lion before it dives. Aki and I watch one adult bald eagle arc around us as it heads down beach.   But otherwise, this is day to listen to learn until an approaching storm drowns out the lessons with heavy rain.

eagle

Like a Botticelli

ocean

“Happy New Year,” said the storm that brought cold, steady rain to Chicken Ridge. It said it with a sneer. Aki, who usually lobbies for an earlier departure for her walk, showed no interest in sampling the rain. But, in the afternoon she found herself riding in the car on a drive to North Douglas Island.

blue sky

Earlier, the storm covered the trail system with several ices of wet snow but nothing falls from the sky when we head into the forest. The constant drip of melting snow makes it hard to enjoy the bright beauty of white on green beauty. But on the beach and on open muskeg meadows, we can stand like patrons in front of a Botticelli and be amazed by the shapes of snow covered trees cutting up a sky of blues, yellows, and grays.

sky

Like Two Wise Men

eagle River

After a holiday season spent under gray skies, trying to dig beauty out of low contrast grays, this cloudless, sunny day is an appreciated gift. Even better, the rain that damped Chicken Ridge on Christmas fell as snow on the lands drained by Eagle River. Aki explodes out of the car after we drop out of the river of cars heading out Juneau’s only real road. I am not sure where, on the remaining fourteen miles of it, they are going to park. Maybe they are driven by people brought here to work for a legislator from one of those car-centered cultures like Los Angeles or Anchorage. Maybe they just need to drive somewhere, if only to feel their right foot on the gas pedal, their hands on a steering wheel.

tree on fire

A stiff crust covers the snow so we can explore off the usual paths. Aki sniffs at recent trails left by a porcupine, a fox, and a coyote. No human or dog has come this way since the last snow. Shafts of sunlight spotlight the beardlike lichen that almost covers the meadow’s mountain hemlocks but mostly we walk in the shade. At the head of a tiny iced over stream, sunlight turns a free standing spruce into a candle. Aki and I approach it like two wise men. The little poodle mix is on the coyote’s trail but loses it where her wild cousin crossed the stream ice. Up close, I understand that even with its halo, our oracle is only a dying tree. Suddenly I realize that I have been breaking through the crust and abrasive snow has worked its way into my new waterproof boots. I’m 100 meters from the packed trail and face a hard job getting off the softening meadow. I turn toward the tree when I reach the trail and am pleased to see that it still shines like the Spirit of Christmas.

sun through fog

Stress Therapy

seal(Note, this photo was taken another day at another place)

Aki and I walk under a canopy of cottonwood branches too bare of leaves to block the rain. When there is a break in the noise of children playing tag, I hear raindrops plopping into a drainage pond. It’s great that the kids, all weighed down in slickers and rubber knee boots, take such joy from playing in the rain. But, their presence adds tension to the walk. If she can, Aki will chase and bark at them in the same way she does with other dogs. Kids often take this the wrong way.

We manage to skirt the knot of kids and walk over to the deep-water remains of the collapsed glory hole. Six mallards float together like a raft on the other side of the hole and then burst into the air. A land otter abandons his stealth mode to watch the ducks land on the beach. A sea duck leaves the same beach and floats onto the waters of the glory hole. I stop and watch, no longer hearing the sound of kids, not noticing that the rain has stopped. I’m waiting for the otter to strike. I wait a long time during which the sea duck dives down and returns to the surface several times. During one dive, when he is under for more than a minute, I think he is lunch until I spot the otter, fifty feet away, still eying the mallards. The duck dips under again and doesn’t come up. The head of seal does, scoping the glory hole waters like a submarine periscope until spotting Aki and I.

Walking away, I feel the clam and peace that had been settling over me since I first spotted the otter. The worry stress from a possible Aki-kid encounter is gone and so, I suspect, are the agitations of this pre-Christmas day

Speed of the Stream

meadowWe leave Chicken Ridge early hoping to get in a hike before the arrival of forecasted 60 miles an hour winds and rain. A thick cloud layer blocks the morning sun like a leaden cover. When we start up the road to OUR mountain meadow trail, a cosmic hand lifts the cover and let the sun shines on the car and the freshly white mountain peaks to the north. Not trusting the strength of that hand, I fret that the sunlight will vanish before we reach the meadow trail.

darkThe yellow light still shines on the meadow when Aki leaps out of the car but fades to gray before I’ve taken more than a few photographs. Sunlight will blink through for a few second at a time during our hike but only it will confuse my digital camera. Without its rich distraction I can appreciate reflections of the bordering mountain ridges in the meadow small ponds, even those broken by fading lily pads.

board walk refAki finds little to distract her on this walk. No dogs come charging up the trail; no squirrels declare the forest a no trespass zone. She still dashes about, tail wagging, nose to the ground as we climb to higher ground. She shows surprising patience when I stop on a flat section of trail and start Tai Chi warm-up exercises. It’s the prefect place for it—the edge of a pocket muskeg meadow separated from a mountain wall by Fish Creek. I face the mountains at commencement, offering an invisible globe to the avalanche chutes. Am I performing a pagan liturgical dance? Aki stands by as I single whip, wave hands, brush knee, parry, punch, block, and finally, push the mountain. I offer another invisible globe to the mountain and pet Aki. For the first time since entering the meadow, I feel in sync with the place, as if my life energy flows at the speed of the stream.

Reflection

Aki The sky fills with gulls when we break out of the woods. They glide as a squadron with the tips of their hinged wings pointed downward. Two harlequin ducks burst from the beach, stretching their necks forward. Nothing remains on the water. “What’s the deal, little dog?”

gullsDown beach I spot a flash of white cross a slower moving patch of turquoise. In a few minutes a young woman with two energetic dogs comes into view. The woman ignores the beach, the birds, and her own dogs while she speaks into a cell phone. She steps over a small stream, apparently not hearing the song of water moving fast over beach pebbles. I am a little angry after she passes me while focused only on her phone. But the stream song soothes me close to where I was when watching the gulls.

JellyBending over I see my judgmental face in the shinny surface of a Lion’s Mane jellyfish that has collapsed on the beach. She was happy. She must have been talking with someone she loved about something she loved. Why should I resent her for enjoying a magical connection with another human being because her voice flushed the beach of birds and shattered a few minutes of my solitude?

Lingering Fall

akiAutumn lingers on in the rain forest. Green leaves still cling to some of the understory plants and we found blooms on meadow strawberries. The devil’s clubs got the memo. Their leaves have turned limp enough to hang like wet paper from the plant’s thorny stalks. We find a few leaves on riverside cottonwoods but most of the tall trees have cast off their yellow growth.

down riverWhile winter delayed fools the plant life, it hasn’t encouraged birds or animals to stay here. The great runs of salmon that pulse up the river set the calendars of eagle, wolf, and bear. Even with the last run of silver salmon now on the upriver spawning beds, I had expected to see eagles and ravens on the river. The eagles must have flow 100 miles north to the braided Chilkat River where a late run of salmon will supply them with food. No telling about Raven.

treesNormally, I’d be impatient with lingering fall. But this year, its moist grey blanket soothes. After turning our back on the river, we move through the old growth forest, silent except for lecturing squirrels (Aki’s enemies) and the crunch of my boots on leaves. It’s raining but we don’t feel the drops until Aki shoots out onto the boardwalk that crosses a muskeg meadow. Here the rain falls in thick drops spaced far enough apart for a mosquito to pass through without getting wet. A shaft of sunlight rips through the overcast to turn the drops into prisms. Aki hunkers by my side during the lightshow. I expect a chorus line of coyotes to dance down the boardwalk on their hind paws or at least a unicycle-riding bear. But we have only sparkling drops trapped in old man’s beard and electrified moss.DR