Category Archives: Southeast Alaska

Fall Battling Winter

P1120103The battle has begun. Winter struck last weekend, driving temperatures low enough to cover Mendenhall Lake with ice and whiten the evergreen forests with fresh snow. Fall fought back yesterday with southern wind and rain that melted the snow cover.  Aki must root for winter. She rarely shows much enthusiasm for walks in the cold rain but she enjoyed winter’s short visit. P1120097

I wonder what fall fights for, now that the forest colors have mostly faded to brown. Shapes? We found many graceful ones on this mornings old growth walk to the beach. My favorites were formed by spruce and hemlock roots, distorted into wrapping curves when their nursery logs rotted from beneath them. The absence of snow allowed us to find a small pile of mammal bones—multifaceted knuckles and a digit damaged by a scavenger. I thought of Henry Moore’s sculptures and the sea lion carcass pushed high up the beach years ago by an autumn tide.  Were the found bones all that remained of his presence? P1120095

Shinny Beauty

P1120031This morning, low sunlight shined through frost covered leaves on Chicken Ridge. I knew it would be lovely on the moraine where colder temperatures and lack of wind would have allowed shards of hoar frost to cover the grass and willows. The same low light would bring out the details in the glacier’s ice. People and dogs would be thick on the trails, drawn out by sun and all it dazzles. I tried to resist going there, like a fat man tries resisting chocolate cake, but gave in to the promise of all that shinny beauty.

P1120050Aki nosed, chased, and sometimes cringed through the parade of dogs. Her other human and I took pictures. Half-inch thick ice covered most of the lake but we found open bays that reflected the glacier and its consorts, freshly white with snow. Joining a parade, we walked to Nugget Falls with the sun at our backs, watching the glacier grow in size with each step. If not for its more famous neighbor the huge waterfall would be a tourist attraction. Here it mainly provides the summer sound track for watching glacier, terns and gulls. I hear it on fall walks over the moraine and even on cross country ski adventures until the cold of deepest winter silences it.

P1120078Having sated our hunger for gaudy beauty, we turned to the sun, now so strong we can only look down at the trail. When the trail changes direction so the the sun shines from our right we see a frost covered bouquet of rose shaped galls formed on the ends of willow branches. The surrounding hoar frost melted quickly in the sun but these galls were just emerging from shade. The sun sparkle in the hoar frost, shinning enhanced by the melting until only moisture glistened on the willow galls and prismatic drops of water clung to the willow’s dead leaves.P1120083

 

Challenged by New Ice

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWinter  planted a brief kiss on Chicken Ridge this morning. Black ice covered the asphalt and fine frost rimmed fallen maple leafs. Aki trots over the ice while I struggle to keep upright. We head up to Basin Road where the gravel surface offers firm footing. Last night storm left a cap of snow on Mt. Juneau that now reflects back the first morning light as we move onto the Flume Trail. Perhaps for the first time in her life, Aki has trouble gaining traction on the Flume. Warming temperatures melted rain droplets that had frozen to the thin branches of overhead alder trees. The reanimated rain formed quarter-sized disks of ice after splatting on trail boards supercooled by water moving through the flume. With both of us at risk of a fall, the little dog and I back track to a gravel trail and follow it home.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Breaking up the Party

P1110988This morning Aki and I broke up a party on the moraine. Bald eagles rather than teenagers filled the guest list. Teens wouldn’t be partying in this a heavy downpour.  The eagles sought fish, not booze.

P1120003The party had just about run its course when we arrived. Two mature bald eagles screamed at each other until one chase the other out of a shared roosting tree. Perviously, they both flew down the trail to rest in the same cottonwood tree. This left three immature eagles, each a confusion of brown and white feathers, who always look bigger to me than the grownups. They held spaces in trees above a ruptured beaver dam.  Late returning silver salmon and the trout that eat their eggs and flesh must pass through the gap.

P1110991Two of the young eagles flew off, leaving one very stubborn teenager in control. Even he eventually flew off, but only to a cottonwood a hundred meters up the lake where he turned his back to us and defecated.

Going to Rest for Winter

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Fall has drained most of the color from the tideland meadow we crossed this morning. Grass and sand now dominate the scene. Even the Herbert Glacier, wedged in a mountain gap upriver, lacks attraction under the gray sky.

One wolf left a description of his passage over a sandbar—stalking steps, a leap, quick turn after escaping prey, then purposeful exit into the woods. A mile away a bear ripped up beach grass in search of roots. We followed the path he broke through waist high grass to the spot, now stripped to the sand dune below. At least he made a meal of it. Given Aki’s recent aggression toward bears, I stopped often afterwards, scanning the beach and meadow for a black hump moving in a digging rhythm. Nothing stirs the grassland until a raven lands. Just before moving into the spruce forest we hear Canada geese being flushed from the tidelands—the only discord over a land going to rest for winter.
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Too Much Water, Too Many Beavers

P1110923Handicapped by beavers and a malfunctioning camera, this morning I joined Aki for a walk over the moraine. Recent heavy rains floated the normally dry portions of the trail. Water backing up from the beaver’s new superdam cut us off from the heart of the trail system. Even our work-around—a seldom used trail through the troll woods, was under waters from another beaver-infected lake. P1110927

Giving up on our favorite moraine trail, we tried one less appealing but heavily used by dog walkers. Aki loved it and all the dog meet and greats she had along the way. The sun shone all over the moraine, except on us. Still, the rain held off until we returned to the car. On the way we passed a raven and an eagle in the top of a leaf-free cottonwood tree. Eagle screech a complaint at Raven who, being higher in the tree, seems to be crowing his accomplishment.  Raven flew off when we approached, dipping low to make Eagle hunch in a cringe. I understood how both of them felt.P1110942

Fitting Fall Decorations

L1210791No seals swam Eagle River when we walked along it this morning. No eagles huddled in the rain, complaining about our invasion of their privacy. There was a heron and one duck flying fast and low over the river, offering little more than a glimpse before disappearing into river born fog. With sand bars bared by an ebbing autumnal tide, the table was set for birds and wolves but no one took advantage. L1210774

Our path across the tidal meadow was greasy with rain water and the decomposing flesh of this year’s salmon—an image as comforting in the rain forest as water and fertilizer being poured onto crop land is for a farmer.  I didn’t mind the greasy ground, the absence of animals or even the little islands of salmon jaws, gill covers, and backbones we found scattered at random on the meadow grass.  The latter are fitting fall decorations for land along a salmon stream. L1210806

Winter Trail in Fall

P1110886This has been a week of little adventures. They started with the cutthroat trout, of size and caught in an unexpected place on an unexpected sunny day. Hooked while gobbling up silver salmon eggs, it served us for two dinners. Aki, it turns out, loves trout as much as her humans. A few days later Aki chased off a large black bear. We heard the bear the night before, banging away on a neighbor’s garbage can. I’ll be glad when he and his clan returned to their winter dens.

P1110909Today we walked on an aging boardwalk that climbs a series of mountain meadows to a Forest Service cabin. Aki started, in her usual fashion, by eliminating the residue of recent meals. Afterwards, she stood by as I captured her product in a plastic bag and threw it in a bear proof trash bin. This, her eyes seemed to tell me, was right and proper. Such a precious gift must be kept safe. We climbed the boardwalk, she guarding the rear, me watching a ribbon of fog float up from the meadow toward a mountain summit. A single cottonwood, still retaining its yellowing leaves, burned like a candle through the rising fog.P1110902

Spheres of Light

P1110862I could have picked a trail sheltered from the 20-knot wind climbing up Douglas Island from Stephens Passage. It broke over a saddle above the meadow where we walked, then slammed us with heavy rain drops. Aki never complained or gave me her, “pick me up I am so pathetic” look, even after her thin fleece wrap grew heavy with rain.

P1110870Why suffer the wind to cross monochrome mountain meadows? I like facing into the wind. Besides testing my foul weather gear, the rain provided most of the drama and beauty. It swelled Fish Creek and its tributaries to near flood and pounded the surface of meadow ponds 

P1110869I wasn’t surprised by the expanding circles sent out by each heavy rain drops that struck exposed pond water, but didn’t expect the perfectly clear spheres that popped to the pond surface. The wind pushed these prismatic spheres across the pond until they burst. The spheres appeared to capture all the morning’s brightness in their short lives, offering little promises of winter sunlight to come.P1110874