Category Archives: Southeast Alaska

Geometry Lesson

AkiFog drew me here. But we were turned back by ice.   The trail took us along the old Treadwell water ditch and then onto a boardwalk that climbs into the Dan Moller Bowl. Even though the mining machinery the ditch once served closed almost 100 years ago, it still holds water. Pale, teardrop shaped leaves contrived to form a single line around the edge of one of the ditch’s narrow ponds. They also circled a willow island. Only the teardrop tops touched the island. The central vein of most leaves formed a 90-degree to the willows. It is hard to believe that gravity, wind, and current alone placed the leaves with such geometric precision.

leavesWhere the trail climbed into the bowl, Aki wanted to remain on the ditch trail. Did she hope to find a doggie friend or two strolling along the ditch? After giving the begging eyes, she followed me onto the boardwalk trail to the fog. In minutes I stepped on my first ice of fall, sliding a few inches to an abrupt stop. Aki turned around and started back the way we came. Ahead, mountainside spruce appeared to be playing catch and release with fog tendrils. Wanting practice taking fog pictures, I continued up the ice covered boards until slipping again. “Okay little dog, best to return to the ditch.”  ice

 

Wracking

glareWe could have picked a better day for it. With wind smashing rain against the house, Aki and I mount up for a wracking expedition. It’s something we do every fall, like picking berries or raking leaves. The seaweed we collect will protect our perennials from hard freezes. Next spring it will enrich our compost.

wracking beach            Like a child left with an inattentive father for the day, Aki entertains herself on the beach. She sniffs and pees, sniffs and pees, then noses a full collection bucket. Finding nothing of interest there, she searches the beach for a fun distraction. I carry two of the heavy buckets up a steep path to the car. Aki follows at my heels and appears more than willing to jump in and wait for me to fetch the other buckets. Did I mention the pouring rain?

admirality   Chores done, I drive to the end of North Douglas Island and lead Aki through a swamp full of nonproducing lingon berries to another beach.. “This is just for fun little dog.” The sun muscles out from a cloudbank and partially blinds us with reflective glare. We stand at the edge of a rock shelf just above diminutive surf. We have sun and the comforting sound of breaking waves; the beauty of Admiralty Island partially shrouded in clouds and four buckets of wrack stored back at the car.

Better in Black and White

RiverAki must be getting used to gunshots. She trots down the trail toward booms that grow louder as we near the moraine lake. Most sound like they were fired by shotguns pointed up at passing ducks. A few had that lingering echo of a gun discharged over water.

ice bergThe shots stop a few minutes before we reach the lake where the wakes of three Bufflehead ducks move toward its center. A newly stripped log bobs on the lake like a corpse—the remains of a beaver’s meal eaten in last night’s fog.

pondWe head toward the Mendenhall River, thankful that the guns are gone and there is no rain. Aki leads me over to a beaver pond that has captured the top of Mt. Stroller White. If Aki and I could walk on water, the pond would be an avenue to Mendenhall Lake. We can’t, so we continue down a muddy trail to the river. Fog moves with surprising speed through the riverside forest, hiding, then revealing the glacier and surrounding mountains. I wish I had my old Nikon loaded with Pan X and the patience I once used to take analog black and white photos. It’s all here for a master like Ansel Adams—the hard and soft textures, shades of white, black and gray; rock-river-ice.eagle

Swamp of Misery

berryThe plan was for a quick walk through the woods on gravel paths. I wore my city coat and good wool cap. We ended up in a swamp of misery. Aki had no problem negotiating the moss-covered ground. She slipped under the tangle of bare blue berry brush and tilting, moss covered alders. I pushed through it, feeling moisture seep into my boots as I cursed my way through the mess. I should have cursed the duck hunter hunkered down on the beach across the easy path to the car. I might as well have cursed the wind for covering another part of the trail with windfalls or the coyote that left the tracks I followed into the swamp.

AkiPulling aside a stout limb I saw a blue berry, round and alone on the leafless bush except for a clinging raindrop. Should I eat the rain washed berry or leave it for wild things? I moved on, fingers innocent of berry juice. We made it out of the swamp. Moss and mud clung to my jacket and rain pants. Aki fine gray hair was moist but clean. She smelled like the forest, like she spent the morning at a cleansing spa.bear bread

Fourth Anniversary

AkiFour Octobers ago I made the first post for this blog. It was on a wet October 9th. Aki and I walked up the Fish Creek Trail and found a land gone to rest after the summer salmon spawn. That is how we find the creek and its forest today. No salmon hold in the creek. No decay perfumes the air. Rain-swollen creek waters have flushed out the bodies of spawned out dogs, pinks and kings. No bears hunt for meals.

We have to step over fresh eagle scat that looks like a splat of pancake batter sloshed from a mixing bowl. I hear the cry of what might be an eagle or even an osprey. I want it to be an osprey and remember Kathleen Dean Moore advising me and others in a Skagway church to write like an osprey—-hover over the terrain of ideas and then dive for promise. Moore told us to struggle on the page with our catch. The struggle provides the reader meat. Today the forest provides a more corporal challenge.

sunlightThe wind-felled trunks of five or six old growth spruce block the trail near the turn around point. There, in past summers I cught salmon and once watched an otter rinse a meal in the stream. This late into the fall, I know of nothing that would justify the effort and risk of crawling over and under the tangle of sticky trunks and limbs. But, sunlight illuminates the path beyond the windfalls just before I turn back. It sparkles on the moist moss, turning it an electric green, backlights hanging strands of old man’s beard and the fine structure of ferns now the porcelain white of fall. Aki holds back but I begin the struggle that wins me a place on the other side of the downed trees. The sunlight disappears just after the little dog dashes under the downed trunks to my side.ferns

Not Carl’s Kind of Fog

nine mile fogOh Carl, what would you make of this Juneau Fog? The stuff obscuring Gastineau Channel didn’t come on cat feet. It manifested itself like a ghost. From Chicken Ridge, I could see the morning sun light up Douglas Island as I loaded the Black and Decker coffee maker. Fog blocked the view before I could take my first sip. Some days it outlasts the sun but today’s channel fog disappeared in an hour.Glacier

Aki and I find a slip of fog still haunting the mouth of Nine Mile Creek. It forms a line of parallel scimitars and heads toward a grove of still yellow cottonwood trees until dispersed by a puff of wind. More formidable fog patches recline like toga wearing drunks over ridges of the Chilkat Mountains. One tries to hide the glacier from view. It could hold there all night if the wind doesn’t rise.bl

Empty Chair

maplesI’m on my way to Pilipino Hall for Tai Chi class. Aki can brush my knee when she wants attention but can’t manage the parry-parry-punch so she stays home. I carry a camera because the low angled morning sun is turning even tired willow leaves into a show. I will be late to class. According to the weather service, we should be in the middle of week long stretch of rain so walking in sunlight, seeing the electric combination of light and fall color brings the kind of joy I once felt while Swedish milk chocolate melted in my mouth.

chairAt Capitol School Park I swing over to a bronze rendering of an empty chair. Members of the Juneau High School class of 1942 placed it there to commemorate the forced internment of their valedictorian and all the other Japanese Americans in Juneau. Two strands of origami cranes, their paper bodies soaked by last night’s rain, hang down the back of the chair. The cranes are a prayer for peace and longevity, the chair a protest against the unfair incarceration of loyal Americans. I wish it were a binding promise of, “never again,” and hope that it will remind the generations of children that will sled past the diminutive monument of the destructive power of fear.flowers

Looking Toward to Tipping Point

Ore HouseBetween rain showers and tides, Aki and I explore the Sheep Creek delta. From the number of loitering gulls and crows, a lot of feed still collects on the beach. The birds hold their ground as we walk out to the water. I watch the tide as they watch us, making sure we are not cut off by the quick moving flood.

deltaAki would like to run with a gang of bird dogs on the other side of the delta, but I hug the creek, wishing we didn’t have to share it with the dogs’ noisy people. They talk, yell at their dogs, blow whistles, talk some more, and ignore the reflection of fading fall color in the gray channel waters.

feathersThe yelling jerks me out of a reflection on the merits of Facebook, hating its invasive practices, loving the access it gives me to distant friends. When will I reach the tipping point? I dislike the political hate posts that appear unsolicited on my newsfeed; hate each ad that demonstrates how much the Facebook folk know about my internet search history. It will only get worse. When it does, I’m off the platform.

 

Time to Get in the Game

rain on lakeWe drive to one of the access points to the Mendenhall wetlands but don’t stop because pickup trucks fill almost all the parking spaces. Guys with guns must be hunting ducks along the trail. We head over to the Auk Lake Trail where we won’t hear explosions or see plummeting birds.

trailVolunteers using government money civilized this old lake muddy trail, packing gravel between straight spruce trees that stand like the two lines of a minuet. Aki trots down the trail as if being honored by soldiers holding drawn sabers over her head.

AkiIt rains hard enough to pockmark the lake but we have some protection in the trees. Enough wet gets through to charge a small stream. The watercourse passes under the trail through a culvert and emerges as a miniature waterfall. While Aki chases her orange Frisbee, I set a chunk of granite under the outfall. In season, birds might fan their wings in spray that bounces from the rock. In time, if nothing shifts the stone or clogs the culvert, the stream might turn rock into a bowl. After six decades of watching, I want to get in the game.