Category Archives: Juneau

Merry Christmas from Chicken Ridge

P1120873If not for the dog, I wouldn’t be walking this exposed beach in the rain. We used a snow covered trail through the old growth to get here, me sliding with each step in mushy snow. I should find the wet grayness out of keeping with the eve of Christmas. My Northern European soul longs for crisp whiteness on the birthday of our Lord. But the innate sadness of rain washing away the Christmas snow fits this day before believers celebrate Christ’s birth. His birth brought the hope and happiness symbolized by snow globes, carols, and Santa Claus. P1120883

As if to encourage my musings, a glaucous-winged gull lifts off the beach, flies a few feet over the water, then uses her arched white-tipped wings to settle onto its surface. I see not a seabird but a child practicing for the angel’s part in the Christmas Play—the who gets to say, “Glory to God in the highest, and on earth peace, good will toward men.” (Luke, Chapter 2, Verses 13-14)P1120890

Merry Christmas from Chicken Ridge

Six Extra Seconds to See the Whale

FOPEven with the six extra seconds of daylight added this day after Winter Solstice, I have to strain in the faint light to make out a large, black back breaking the surface near Spuhn Island. I expected the flat heads of sea lions, who had been carrying on a conversation just before I heard something large exhale followed by their warning call and crash dives.  The whale-like shape slips beneath the water then reappears farther into Favorite Passage after I hear another exhale.P1120724

I would have been happy with the white arc of this beach, its edge being refined by the incoming tide; the still bay reflecting a point thick with snow loaded spruce. It would have been enough that the rain stopped, that Aki and I found shallower snow to track along the water’s edge, that a small seal rises to watch our struggles from just offshore. We came to False Outer Point to confirm today’s gift of six seconds of extra light; accept the promise of 16 more seconds tomorrow, 25 the next, and 44 more on Christmas. The whale’s presence is a bonus.P1120277

Raven’s Solstice Song

P1120865With the tidal door slowly swinging closed, Aki the poodle-mix, my daughter and I round the little point that forms its door stop on the lower Mendenhall River. Six to eight feet of sloping beach still separate ocean water from rocky barrier. We walk quickly down beach on pebbles glued in place by ice. Full sun blankets the glacier and its mountain consorts but we are in shade. So is a mid-river sandbar covered by noisy ducks and Canada geese. Some float away on cold water, lifted off the bar by the rising sea. P1120867

It’s only 1140 but the sun appears to have already set for us behind a ridge of Douglass Island mountains. Then it slides into a notch from where its rays can reach our beach. “What a beautiful place we live,” says the daughter to the dog. She reminds me about the tide. We turn back, finding the beach around the point underwater but not a gap in the rocks through which we make good our escape. P1120858

Back on Chicken Ridge, a raven stands atop the utility pole outside our kitchen window, sun lighting a slice of beak and feathers, leaving the rest in shadow.  He chants, sending out little puffs of clouds from his beak. Water filling the tea kettle prevents me from hearing the actual song so I make up my own words:

Raven brought the first light

Raven brings this light

be grateful

be generous

be sharing on the solstice

or Raven will fly the light awayL1210946

Almost The Solstice

P1120793Now, a few days shy of winter solstice, little sun reaches the depths of Gold Creek Canyon. It can’t touch the creek itself, stubbornly liquid on this 14 degree day.  I watch slices of light move across the snow covered ridges above the old A.J. Mine. Other slices light short segments of the flume carrying water to the hydro plant near the Indian Village. As if spooked by the bright light, Aki resists crossing these portions of the flume.  I carry her until finding a section of mountain side where squiggles of ice formed from rock seepage sparkle. In seconds dusk replaces day, leaving us in the comforting grey. P1120802

Skater’s Cabin

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERALocated on the east shore of Mendenhall Lake, the Skater’s Cabin has offered shelter and a view of the the glacier since built in 1936. The Civil Conservation Corp (CCC) constructed it from stones gathered from the surrounding moraine. That year my father built roads in Montana as a member of the CCC. Funded by the federal government to put men, like my dad, back to work during the depression, the CCC enriched Alaska with shelters, campgrounds, and even totem poles. The men’s work product showed pride and care. You can see that in the still straight walls of Skater’s Cabin. After skiing this morning, I took this picture of the cabin, a little proud of myself for using it to frame the lake and glacier. Back on Chicken Ridge, I found almost the exact content in a better photograph taken by Trevor Davis shortly after the cabin was built. You can see the crisp and beautiful photo here: http://vilda.alaska.edu/cdm/singleitem/collection/cdmg21/id/2354/rec/10   Mr. Davis’ picture shows a strip of cleared ice for skating to the face of a much larger Mendenhall Glacier. It reminds us of the beauty of black and white photography, and how much ice we’ve lost in 70 some years. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Wallowing

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAUnwelcome rain washes our city streets. It started last night when the temperature climbed above freezing. The rain fell and the temperature rose in the night; working to soften the snow pack along Eagle River. We skied there anyway, me and Aki’s other human packing a trail for the little dog. Things went her way until I left our little pack to ski down a lesser used trail. When wallowing in deep snow to frame this photograph, I fell. Aki, watching on the other side of a wide stretch of bottomless snow started toward me. Struggling from the start, she stopped often to rest between stints of dog paddling her way to me. Above, a bald eagle circled over the tired poodle-mix. Fortunately for everyone but the hunting bird, Aki turned back, using her packed trail to climb to safety offered by the other skier.  OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

The Queen of Chicken Ridge

P1120772Somebody’s luck is bad, I think as the melancholy sound of a siren arrives on the wind. No other town noise reaches here; nothing to complete with a raven’s harsh chants. With snowshoes, I pack a trail over deep snow for Aki. The little poodle mix processes with calm dignity behind, letting the fox that recently tracked the snow know who reigns over Chicken Ridge. I’m working for the fox too, and maybe some nervous snowshoe hares. Even a wolf could exploit me, using the packed trail to run down prey. P1120775

Burdened Trees and Milky Water

P1120726While it rained on Chicken Ridge last night, it snowed hard a few miles away on North Douglas Island. I had to clear a foot of fresh white from the trailhead trash can before depositing Aki’s bag of scat. My boots sunk through deep snow with every step until we reached the shelter of old growth spruce. The limbs of the big trees bent almost straight down under a load of new snow. Such sacrifices provide comfortable passage for our Sitka black tail deer. Today they made it possible for Aki to dash around the forest floor, tail up, ears rising and falling with each leap. Her fun ended when one tree released its load, sending a white shower across the trail. It sounded like an express train passing through a subway station. After, I almost expected a sigh, like I would emit after being freed from a heavy burden. P1120748

Walking through a forest of trees accumulating then releasing their snow burdens we made it to the sea where the high tide pushed a thick strip of cream colored water onto the beach. I considered and rejected many fanciful explanations for this snow white water—surplus milk dumping, silly practical joke, environmental disaster. The answer was simply a matter of timing. Last night’s storm struck at low tide, allowing a great amount of snow to accumulated over exposed tide pools, gravel and sand. The morning’s flood lifted off the snow, then churned it with wave and swell until the near-beach water turned an opaque white. P1120752

I’ve seen water off Southeast beaches yellowed with cedar pollen or herring spawn and darkened by the red tide. Until this morning, it never mimicked  something from a cow. P1120759

Dying Blind

P1120703Thanks to the tilting earth

one season frames another,

snow collects on fallen leaves

until yielding to the crocus.

During rain forest winters

fickle winds cover and lay bare,

build ice frames for thickening water.

When death arrives in the rain forest

does he take beauty,

the memory of ice forming on stream rocks,

to where the living may not follow?

Neither man nor raven can answer.  We rely on faith and

revelations from a dying man’s eyes. P1120707

 

The Give and Take of Tides

P1120718It’s 1530 on Chicken Ridge. Now past sunset, the sky darkens from sweet crayon blue to black with the ascendancy of a slivered moon. Gray clouds turn pink, then orange, then red. Listening to Chieftains (Album 1) isn’t required to write about this sky, but I need the music to describe the walk Aki and I just finished on the Sheep Creek Delta. The rich mix of joy and sadness the boys convey with fiddle, whistle and bodhran makes a fitting soundtrack for this afternoon’s flood tide. P1120637

Arriving a few hours before the cresting of a 17 foot high tide, the little dog and I headed directly for the delta’s edge. We passed tide pools completely covered by  paper thin sheets of flexible sea ice. I could make out shapes and pebbles through the translucent covering.  In a momentarily dry channel, the tips of barnacle colonies poked through other thin ice sheets as if wrapped in frozen barbers’ capes. Layers of long frost feathers decorate their capes. I was tempted to linger, knowing that this icy beauty would be lost to the flooding tide, but prudently followed Aki toward the sea edge, checking to make sure we would not be cut off by rising water.    P1120661The larger puddles and ponds, still unfrozen, captured more light and color in their reflections of mountain and sky than could be found in the things reflected. We watched the tide smash one of these liquid mirrors, bringing movement that fragmented the reflection, leaving us with a shattered image of Sheep Mountain.

Aki started whining while I tried to focus the camera on a reflective scene. Looking behind us, I saw tide water quickly filling a channel we would have to cross to get back to the car. We made a run for it, leaving deep prints in the channel mud that filled with tidal water seconds after made. Reaching a dry high spot on the beach I looked back and watched translucent ice sheets melting on contact with the flooding sea. Any sense of loss was soon replaced by hope and the expectation that when it retreated, this new tide would leave behind more icy wonder.P1120688