Category Archives: Kwethluk

Nature

Conversations

1

Neither Aki nor I speak the language but I still enjoy the locals’ conversations. Along he forested part of the trail we thrushes, robins, wrens share their work songs. Eagles bitch at each other. Gulls bicker. Ducks warn others raft members of our approach to the beach.

3

In spite of all the forest noise, the beach is empty. A strip of fog forms a funny hat on Benjamin Island. Most of the action is at Shaman Island where the gulls and eagles linger. Close in a small collection of harlequin ducks make quick dives on baitfish.

2

Back in the forest, it’s more bird song and the occasional squirrel chatter. Near the car two red-breasted sapsuckers hammer the parallel parking sign. One flushes away. The other climbs to the top of a sign and gives up a hard look.

Wet and Grumpy

1

Aki doesn’t want to be here. She lags behind as I try to lead her deeper into the Treadwell ruins. Each time I turn around she freezes and tries to stop me with a stare. Only when the invisible band that attaches us stretches too far does she slowly shorten the distance.

2

Maybe it’s the rain, which marks the end of a long, sunny stretch. It could be ghosts of those that lived and worked the mines before a cave in one hundred years ago shut everything down. If she is like me, she is displeased by the recent efforts with chainsaws to push the forest back from ruins that would otherwise crumble into earth.

3

Fly Over

1

The screech of a predator makes Aki jerk toward the noise. When two shotgun blasts follow, she looks to me for reassurance. We are on a wetlands trail near the airport. In minutes a morning flight to Seattle will fly over our heads. I want to tell Aki that the screech and bangs were meant to clear migratory birds from the runway.

1

The noisy show doesn’t stir a raft of American widgeons feeding on the nearby Mendenhall River. These migratory ducks are another sign of spring as is the daily shrinkage of night. Frost whitens the still dead stalks of grass that cover the wetlands. But tough shoots of green grass have already started their climb into summer.

3

Four minutes late, the southbound Alaska Airlines flight climbs off the runway and over our heads. Inside, one of Aki’s other humans looks down on familiar landmarks from an unfamiliar angle but we are too close to the flight path to be seen by any of the passengers.

Darks and Lights

2

Another sunny day in the rain forest. Aki trots between an old friend and me along the forested edge of Auk Lake. It was near freezing when we started but is now warming toward the projected high of 57. Spider silk and remnant ice draw dominate the walk.

3

The silk, spread taught between the twigs of a blue berry bush with bark already blushing red with spring sap, appears and disappears as a faint breeze moves it in and out of the light. Each pulse presents and withdraws in less than a second a linear rainbow of color. In wet areas not yet reached by the morning light, velum-thin sheets of ice form mazes of interconnected ice feathers. Each ice sheet is as monochromatic as the spider tightropes are prismatic.

1

Eagle Edgy

4

All the birds on the Fish Creek delta are edgy and its not Aki’s fault. It can’t be the weather. We have clear, windless skies. A gentle sun warms the beach grass straw. It can’t be the tide, which retreated this morning to leave acres of exposed mud for the birds to hunt and hide on. Mallards burst off the flats in twos and threes to fly in an arc around us and land on the creek water.

1

Eagles launch from beachside spruce to shrink into dots over the wetlands. Eventually, I make the connection. It’s their gliding flight that routs the mallards and other ducks.

2

In the woods along Fish Creek pond, a murder of crows wake from their roost. Their outriders dog our passage back to the trailhead, croaking warning to the little dog. But the resident squirrels, normally the first to scold Aki, watch us pass without comment.

3

The Church of Powder and Shot

2

As Aki and I hurry past the gun range to where the Montana Creek ski trail starts, I wonder at these people who chose to spend Sunday morning discharging high power rifles. Perhaps their Sabbath falls on a different day of the week. It’s still early so maybe they are centering themselves for the mid-morning Palm Sunday service by releasing violence against a paper target. For others, this may be their church: their way to celebrate creation and life. Instead of following along in hymnals, they use the Remington 270 or a standard thirty-ought-six to sing divine praise. Members of this church of powder and shot must prefer the bark of a Winchester 30-30 carbine to a homily.

4

When the rifle range noise becomes hidden by the sound of Montana Creek, I ease into skiing. Aki releases her tail from between her hind legs and trots along, stopping to sniff and pee like she does when relaxed. But at the turnaround spot, where there is only a tributary of the creek to break the silence, we hear three loud bangs. Down goes the tail until it is curled between Aki’s legs. Even though we are soon back to where the creek noise blocks out violence sounds, the little dog doesn’t relax.

3

After we run out of skiable snow, we walk. Yesterday, on this patch of ice and pavement, I felt like a WWI recruit approaching the trenches for the first time, trying not to duck for cover. But today, we don’t hear any shots during the 500-meter walk to the car. The gun range is practically empty. We spot only two men and them conversing quietly next to their pickup truck. Church must be out.

1

Winter on Life Support

2

Aki was not pleased at being left out of yesterday’s hike. Giving me hard looks, she followed me around the house this morning as I gather needed stuff for a cross-country ski on the Montana Creek trail. We have avoided this trail for the last two seasons because it starts near a very active gun range. The cannon-like noise produced hurts my ears and makes the little dog very nervous. But Aki loves snow, especially when it offers her a chance to run along side one of her people skiing. So here we are.

1

Thanks it its proximity to the glacier, Montana Creek has an icebox microclimate that keeps winter alive as spring flowers open on Chicken Ridge. While walking away from the gun range on a bone-dry road I wonder if we left it too late. But three hundred meters ahead we find an icy covering that had been made just skiable by groomer. With the drum and track setter that he tows behind his snowmachine (Skido in Canadian, Snowmobile in American), he keeps winter on life support for the first kilometer of the trail. After that he just has to tidy up the snow that winter retains on its own. For the last two kilometers of the creek side trail snow stacks three feet high decorate boulders in the stream and a blanket of the same thickness covers the forest floor.

3

Seven Miles

3

On this seventh day of the fourth month of the seventeenth year I hike seven miles without Aki. Later, I will learn that the little dog had a great time walking around Downtown Juneau. But she would have enjoyed this meander around the Point Bridget Peninsula. First, there is the weather: mild with little wind, occasional sun, temperatures in the fifties. Second, there is the company: a group of hikers who enjoy each other’s company as much as they do the woods.

2

We start by skirting the beaver dam ponds that Aki and I walked across during our last visit. Then the trail takes us down the edge of a meadow that is rich in wildflowers in high summer. Already wild iris push little green arrows through last season’s dead growth. In a month or two their purple flowers will wave in the summer wind above chocolate lilies and magenta shooting stars. But today nothing on the meadow pulls the eye away from the still-white mountains of Yankee Basin.

1

After the meadow we climb to Cedar Lake, with its northern-most stand of yellow cedar trees. Then it’s up an old mining trail and down to Camping Cove. The rest of hike offers us at least filtered views of the ocean. At times only the sound of it’s small waves competes with that made by boots hammering muddy ground.

4

Avalanche Season

2

It’s avalanche season in the Perseverance Basin. The little dog and I hear the thunderstorm drama of two but don’t turn back. We’ve chosen a route that avoids the run outs of their chutes. It still startles to hear the ripping, crack of thunder sound of a winter’s buildup of snow breaking away from Mt. Juneau. Today the smaller snowfalls we see quickly diminish to cascades that sound like loose gravel falling down a drainpipe.

3

It’s also early spring. The forest ground, now freed of its overburden of snow, seems to exhale. It’s breath smells faintly of mold, dirt, and the resin of fallen spruce needles.

1

Fishing Near the College

1

We start this hike on a trail through Juneau’s tiny university. Students encased in rain gear talk about classes or the opposite sex. In less than five minutes were are on the Auk Lake trail, passing in the process two totem poles and a bronze sculpture of a breaching humpback whale. Aki likes this portion of the hike, perhaps because of the friendly reception she receives from the students.

2

On the edge of the stream that drains the lake, a guy in commercial crab pulling rain gear casts with a fly rod. The stream carries thousands of sockeye fry past him and dumps them into Auk Bay. This salmon fry river draws the attention of cutthroat trout and dolly varden that had wintered in the lake. The fly fisherman targets the dollies and trout, which target the salmon fry, which have been feeding on things lower down the food chain. So much violence carried on beneath the languid surface waters of the lake and stream.

3