Category Archives: glacier moraine

Metaphors with Options

glacier

The air is clear blue and cold above Mendenhall Lake when we step into our skis. The sun rose while Aki ran circles around the car: her potty dance. Now, wearing her pink puffy vest, she hunches up as we adjust jackets and gloves before moving toward the glacier. Wind rises with the sun but can’t make up its mind as to direction. Our eyes water and a large tear, the size of a raindrop, freezes on my human partner’s cheek. I ignore the metaphor, watch a streak of sunshine move down the glacial ice, consider whether great natural beauty can really stimulate tears, think, “nah,” and ski on.

snow

We take advantage of the uniform snow surface on the lake to make a beeline toward the lake’s sunny side. I stop to photograph a fracture line in the ice that runs almost to the glacier. Here is another metaphor but I am too cold to care. The wind now blows hard off the Juneau Ice Fields. It streams loose snow off the Mendenhall Towers and sends white spindrifts around my legs and over the grooved trail. We fly, without effort back toward Skater’s Cabin, where we started. Another metaphor with options: Glacial wind scouring away the rift raft or returning the speed of youth.

lake

River Annex

fog

I can tell no one has walked this moraine trail for a while. My boot cleats are the first to chip the trail’s hard, slick ice. My admiration for the effective cleats is exceeded only by a fear that the worn rubber strapping will snap. After side slipping a couple of times Aki now travels on the trail margin where the ice tapers onto bare ground or snow. Smart dog. Mt. Fog blocked all mountain views when we entered to the moraine but is melting away into the spruce covered hills. Through breaks in the trailside alders I can see Mt. McGinnis, its snowy outline barely contrasting with the white sky. We are heading to a frozen mud bar on the Mendenhall River that offers an unencumbered view of the mountain.

lodge

With the white sky, flat light and narrow variation in hue, the scene is a disappointment. But, when I follow Aki down the mud bar we find a beaver lodge, its three entrances open and apparently unprotected. My little dog sniffs around a bit and pees the beavers a greeting. I can’t see evidence of that a predator tried to dig its way into the lodge but the paths up to the entrances look well used. No wonder the moraine beaver population seems to be expanding. Aki and I pass the beaver’s current logging plot on the way back to the car and are startled by two splashes made by the day crew.

 

logging

All Ice

aki

I need to expand my vocabulary. The current one lacks words to describe the ice-covered world we walk through today. There’s the glacier ice, a pale aquamarine that fades to snow white under the strengthening morning sun. White iceberg islands dot gray lake ice that imperfectly reflects the white of mountains and glacier. I spend most of my time studying the slick ice that covers every trail we take. Even Aki struggles to keep upright on it. Without cleats on my boots, I wouldn’t have been able to walk from the car to the trailhead. Inch thick slick stuff clings to the trail and mimics the rises and dips on exposed tree roots and pebbles. I take a gentle fall when my left boot slips over an ice covered tree root.

ice

Christmas Rose

ice bladeAki and I are working our way over ice toward the glacier. My daughter, who now lives on the East Coast walks with us. In a Juneau convergence moment, she spots two people from her college days in Los Angeles. Neither of them lives in Juneau.   Beneath their feet Aki has a noisy argument with two Chihuahuas that they brought with them from LA. Across the frozen lake, an apricot and gray sky backdrops Mt. McGinnis. When the fight ends I walk over to a frosted rose at the tip of a humble willow branch. It too represents a convergence but one made by nature, not man. Last summer an insect infested the willow, causing a mutation shaped like a delicately petaled rose bud. On this mid-winter day, we won’t find another rose bud outside of a florist’s cold safe. It is our Christmas rose so I am pleased to find a field of tiny frost crowns formed on the bud. Does anyone know the words to “Lo how a rose e’er blooming?”willow rose

Breaking Through

dropIt was coming for a while now, this soaked boot, this wet pant leg; something to expect when wandering during a thaw. My right leg broke through an ice bridge that thinly covered a moraine creek. Aki watched me attempt the crossing and then used information gained to make it warm and dry to the other side. On this above freezing day it is an inconvenience. Thirty degrees colder and I would be stuffing dried glass between my pant leg and skin. If we had to camp out tonight, I’d be sleeping with a boot in my bag. But winter is still on retreat.

fireWe are happy to have a thin dusting of snow to brighten a gray day. The show looks best on the young spruce died in a fire. In summer their black trunks stand like skeletons over a scattering of flowering lupine. Today, covered in fresh snow, the fire blacking works to their advantage.fire trees

Aki Sees Blue

icebergEvery time I walk in view of the Mendenhall Glacier, I must resist the urge to take its picture. The world does not need more images the ice river. This morning, Aki and I walk with it at out backs. I keep wanting to turn around to see its violet blue ice reflected in melt water. On an overcast day like this one, the ancient ice absorbs all but blue light.

Falls

Aki pays no attention to the glacier and ignores the indigo ice bergs that form islands on Mendenhall Lake even when I command, “Aki, look at that berg—the one shaped like a half empty sack of kibble. I know you can see the color blue. Doesn’t it make you little poodle heart go pitter patter? If she could talk, she would probably respond, “Man who fills the bowl, who eats peanuts in my presence and only shares one with your faithful protector, I can also see brown, the color of my fragrant scat, what you call “poop” or “not again,” but it doesn’t make my heart go pitty pat.” The poodle of my imagination is so long winded.
ice cycles

Hunting Beauty, Not Ducks

McGinnisIt is hard to know whether to look up or down. Our first cold snap has crisped up the trail, freezing up the muddy bits and decorating sand bars with frost feathers. Most of the moraine lakes are completely covered by a thin sheet of opaque ice that just manages to catch the mountains’ reflections. So while Aki sniffs and pees I look down at the frost and up at the white covered mountains looking spiffy in the late afternoon sun.

frostThere still be some open water because we hear a shotgun fired nearby. Somebody is taking one last shot at the ducks before they move out to salt water. I think I heard the hunter’s comic sounding duck call when we circled one of the lakes. Without the hunter, we would have silence. Even the squirrels are mum. Maybe that is what I like the best about winter weather. We usually have silence, especially during heavy snow to go with the beauty.Thunder reflection

Fishing for Images

MLThis is supposed to be a fishing trip. With the trees now bare of leaves, clouds blocking the mountains, and rain discouraging the use of a digital camera, fishing seemed to be the best use of the day. Since it is small, I slipped the camera into the day back at the last minute.

CLAki is wet in minutes. My gear holds up better but she doesn’t appear to care. We have the place to ourselves until we run into the volunteer beaver patrol. Armed with sturdy, three-pronged rakes, they are opening up a key waterway so late run coho salmon can reach their gravel spawning beds. This involves deconstructing beaver dams. Since they concentrate on building up their winter woodpile, the beavers won’t undo the patrol’s work until the salmon have moved through.

stumpThe patrol’s efforts also allow recently submerged human trails to dry out. Aki and I take several to various fishing spots around the moraine. We are too early or too late for catching dolly vardens. At two of the lakes I watch trout rise in the center of lake. I was tempted to wait for them to swim to us but Aki looks bored and, since she is wet, a little pathetic.

CL IIThe clouds rise during our walk to reveal Thunder Mountain and the sharp peaks that surround the glacier. Standing on a still intact beaver dam, I watch the wake of a bufflehead duck and two companions ripple the image of mountains, clouds, and fog enriched by lake waters. This time of year, the surfaces of lakes provide the richest beauty.

Better in Black and White

RiverAki must be getting used to gunshots. She trots down the trail toward booms that grow louder as we near the moraine lake. Most sound like they were fired by shotguns pointed up at passing ducks. A few had that lingering echo of a gun discharged over water.

ice bergThe shots stop a few minutes before we reach the lake where the wakes of three Bufflehead ducks move toward its center. A newly stripped log bobs on the lake like a corpse—the remains of a beaver’s meal eaten in last night’s fog.

pondWe head toward the Mendenhall River, thankful that the guns are gone and there is no rain. Aki leads me over to a beaver pond that has captured the top of Mt. Stroller White. If Aki and I could walk on water, the pond would be an avenue to Mendenhall Lake. We can’t, so we continue down a muddy trail to the river. Fog moves with surprising speed through the riverside forest, hiding, then revealing the glacier and surrounding mountains. I wish I had my old Nikon loaded with Pan X and the patience I once used to take analog black and white photos. It’s all here for a master like Ansel Adams—the hard and soft textures, shades of white, black and gray; rock-river-ice.eagle

Cosmic Imbalance

Dredge LakeAki dances around as I prepare for this afternoon’s expedition. God blessed her and all dogs with a weak short-term memory. She seems to have forgotten yesterday’s windy walk through the woods.

Soft, sparse rain falls as we walk onto the moraine. A fog ghost rises from a grove of yellow leafed cottonwoods and climbs up the spruce green wall of Thunder Mountain. Recent weather has put me in an Old Testament kind of mood so I pretend that the rising white form proves cosmic acceptance of our sacrifice during the just ended wet summer. (Juneau set a seasonal record for rainfall). But I know better.

Years in Alaska have taught me that bad weather never guarantees future stretches of good. Last summer’s monsoon season didn’t produce any cosmic credit that we can cash for a dump of snow followed by weeks of winter sun. I also know that a good stretch of summer sunshine creates a debit that can only be paid while wearing rain gear or arctic gear to block the icy Taku winds.

Aki at Beaver work site   Aki doesn’t worry about cosmic imbalance or even the rain. She bounds around the moraine playing with a heard of water dogs that gallop up to her with wagging tails and goofy grins. I urge her to let them go and move on to the shore of Moose Lake so I can enjoy the reflection of the blue iced glacier underlined with a jagged line of yellow cottonwoods. We reach it just in time for a few quick photographs of the ice reflected in gently dimpled lake. Then, a deluge destroys the reflective power of the water. I wonder why this won’t earn us any points. Moose Lake