Category Archives: Dan Branch

Unprepared for the Flick of God’s Wrist

One hundred and forty-five years ago today Mother Russia gave the United States the keys to Alaska. We celebrate the anniversary by heading into the mountains. Aki, who loves snow above all things (other than cheese) finds a blanket of it covering the meadows. Dashing from the car she speeds her way up and then down the trail while I measure the cold and wind. I’ve underdressed for this stiff wind whipping away my body temperature even through rain gear.  Oh well, I’d planned on visiting the sheltered woods drained by Fish Creek later anyway. “Sorry Aki, we won’t be here long.”

The first snow always catches nature unprepared. We see submerged lilly pads, still in the process of fall die back, through a pond surface made opaque by snow. A blue berry bush still in high fall color struggles to shake over its new white coat. They were unprepared for the flick of God’s wrist that brought this early taste of winter.

We stay longer than originally planned, knowing that our fickle weather will soon bring a cleansing rain to this world of white. Aki, not yet toughened to winter cold is happy to hop back into the car. She is just as happy to hop out of it at the Fish Creek trailhead. Here surprising shafts of sunlight break through cloud cover to enhance the beauty of fading fall color. I spot a porcupine, upper back almost devoid of spines, gnawing the bark of a willow bush.  Aki, distracted by some dog’s pee mail, doesn’t spot the little guy.

If allowed to get too close to a porcupine, a dog can end up with a mouth and face full of quills. Aki, who seems to think of them as slow moving dogs, has managed many close encounters with these spiny guys without picking up a quill. Not wanting to tempt fate I pick her up and we walk past the feeding porcupine.

The thick woods along Fish Creek are still holding off winter. Most bushes are in fall color while some skunk cabbage still sport green leaves. Almost bored after experiencing the snowy drama of the mountain meadows we spend little time in the old growth, finding the strongest beauty in a yellowing leaf apparently too stubborn to join his fallen neighbors now covering the forest floor.

 

Simply Telling

As dwellers of the rain forest we rarely hear the sound of dried leaves crackling beneath our boots.  We recently enjoyed a stretch of dry weather but it ended before many leaves had reached the ground.  Rain came with a vigorous wind that stripped the tall cottonwoods lining this trail. Today dead leaves cover this trail but do not crunch underfoot. Then the rain strengthens to thick drops that strike the leaves with force to reproduce the sound of a crackling fire.

Aki, closer to the sound than I, ignores it. She concentrates on that squirrel streaking arrogantly across her field of vision. Once a squirrel caught Aki’s attention like this and then stopped at the edge of the trail as if waiting for her to catch up. Squirrel and dog faced each other for a moment, the dog’s tail indicating a willingness to play. Squirrel broke for the woods with Aki in half hearted pursuit. They always get away.

With the rain beating a tattoo on the carpet of leaves we move deeper in the forest where dead yellow and brown ferns collapse against still green brush. Its a scene dominated by autumn browns but punctuated with individual shows of yellows. oranges and reds. The hugging sorrel show the strongest red even when submerged in sections of flooded forest. A few thin trunked cotton woods still display bright leaves, candles of yellow light in a grey and brown place.

We find the riverine meadow nearly covered by a great high tide. Only the tallest grass stands above the flooding river to form watery islands now haunted by Canada geese. I had timed this visit in hopes of seeing birds driven close by the high water. They usually squat on the sand bars that can reach almost a mile into the sea at low tide. The ebb has forced them here where we can watch them search for food. One raises its closed beak skyward as it seeking a rinse. Another opens her wide while looking with purpose at another goose. Is she telling a great story, or simply telling?

Just Missing the First Visit of Winter

Yesterday winter paid this mountain meadow a visit, lowering temperatures and visibility, painting everything white. The possibility of mountain snow drew me here even through a heavy rain storm that kept the car’s wiper blades working at full speed until we arrived at the trail head.  A man stands with arms resting on ski poles and feet encased in rigid downhill skiing boots. Looking the heavy metal skis strapped to his back I asked, “did you find any.”  “There was a ball someone made of snow yesterday; yesterday would have been great.” I could only honor his devotional hope. We both long for winter.

Without a chance for snow Aki and I drop onto a trail leading through a series of meadows to old growth forest. The rain, which had stopped for a few minutes slowly returns, its heavy rain drops creating concentric rings on the meadow’s pocket ponds. Aki waits patiently as I watch the rings spread evenly out until intersected by others. When the rain thickens into a downpour it will be chaos on the water’s surface but now each drop keeps a respectful distance from it’s brothers. 

Lily pads that had almost covered each pond’s surface now disintegrate near it’s bed. Faded in color but not shape they form a ghost garden distorted by rain drop rings.  I’m surprised by the forked stalk of Labrador Tea rising from the water.  During the heady days of summer it’s mother plant sent it out into the pond to gather light without competition from it’s crowding neighbors. Now leaves showing the bright red of death illuminate the mother’s foolishness. 

Leaving it too late

I am trying to ignore the voice that rises up the mountain from the mouth of a woman heading this way with at least one friend. It never stops or slows. Aki looks forward at a small family ahead of us on the trail. They stop, having just crested the saddle so their toddler can ride a diminutive bicycle around them.  The mountain turns in a Fellini set but without nuns or umbrellas. We have left it too late.

Normally early risers, Aki and I would have been climbing up this mountain slope at daybreak but for errands and an appointment in late morning that could not be missed. We pass the family, nice folks with quiet voices, and continue to a mountain ridge said to offer a view of Admiralty Island. The voice and her friend pass the family and continue apace with Aki and I. Showing no sign of weakening it fills the air with stories of things that happened far from here and that mean nothing to me. The voice will follow us to the top.

Seeking the smallest solitude I lead Aki off the dry gravel road and onto a wet downward curving muskeg meadow. In minutes we hear only a tiny wind. I’d meant to come up here on the sunny weekend day in late September that we spent in the Fish Creek woods. This meadow would have been a persian carpet of colors that day.  Today only low bush blueberry brush and free standing  deer cabbage leafs offer some red drama to go with a few grass clumps still showing gold and yellow beauty. Most everything else has faded to early winter brown. 

We walk where the wind strikes hard at the mountain shoulder before bending downslope to the sea. Few plants can grow more than a foot off the ground. Only wind sculptured mountain hemlocks and the stripped carcasses of gnarled spruce reach high enough to bother the wind.

Have I mentioned that the ground and all its plants carry a heavy load of dew drops that soak Aki and my shoes. At first I accepted it as the price of escaping the voice then saw the dew drops sparkle with sunlight turning the brown corpses of skunk cabbage into works of art.

We find a patch of low growing blueberry bushes that still hold fruit. While I take a picture of the berry forest Aki the brat invades it, knocking over ripe berries as she goes then gobbles up the ones that caught her eye. I manage to find the two or three berries that escaped her pillaging and pop them in my mouth. They taste faded as the colors that surround them. We left it too late. 

Little Universes of Beauty

Nature rarely blesses Southeast Alaska with spectacular displays of fall color. We have too many moving parts. Unlike New England with its blanket of blazing maple trees softening their already soft mountains we rely upon many plants and animals that offer up color during the fall die back, salmon included.

In great years reddening sorrel, crabapple, and cranberry brush peak with yellowing cottonwoods, devil’s clubs and willows. This year cottonwood, willow, high bush cranberry, and alder leaves already litter forest trails. The umbrella like devil’s clubs leaves will soon join them. Only a few ground hugging sorrel, wild strawberries and high bush cranberry brush show bright red color. It’s a Fall to look down and deep into the forest for little universes of beauty.  

While Aki sticks her nose into a recently dug hole, I am drawn to pure white mushroom wings growing on the side of a mossy stump. They have captured dark a few magenta colored spruce seeds fallen from the paws of squirrels perched above in the mother tree. Nothing else in the forest displays white. Nearby a cluster of glistening pink fungus have interlocked their caps as if to protect a community of ferries. 

Deeper in the woods we come across the almost cartoonish Amanita or Fly agaric. With fat stem and bright yellow or red spotted cap it looks like an amusement park escapee. Our most poisonous mushroom, those who eat it experience a brief period of drowsiness followed by a drunk like excitement and then a deep coma like sleep. Some little creature has taken a bite out of this one but we don’t see it in the vicinity sleeping off a drunk. 

 

Sliding to a Pleasant Darkness

Today I feel the seasonal slide to darkness

the five minute a day tumble past the bright holiday islands

Halloween, Thanksgiving.

A peaceful fall from summer to solstice

when wise Northmen spend stored energy of the light

on joy

others on self destruction.

I never notice the growth of night

until the last bear finds its den

the last cruise ship heads south

the last salmon flesh dissolves in Fish Creek.

After The Salmon Have Gone

We are having one of those joy after sorrow moments that come in the Fall.  The hard rain and wind of last week ended at daybreak and for a precious few hours there is sun shining from a blue sky. We should be climbing into alpine meadows, now blankets of yellows and reds but I haven’t visited Fish Creek all summer. In season the place is thick with bears harvesting spawning salmon.  That’s over now that rain driven creek waters have flushed all dead or dying salmon to the sea.

We find the trucks of duck hunters in the trailhead parking lot. Their shotgun blasts sound across the wetlands. Aki is so excited to visit with this old friend she ignores the shots. Soon she is soaked by running through grass still heavy from last night’s rain. Low morning sun shines through water drops clinging to spruce needles, grass seeds, and tendrils of white tree lichen (Medusula’s Beard).

Heading down to the pond we pass colonies of colorful mushrooms that appear to swell by the minute. Steam rises from the lake side meadows and this field of six foot high fireweed stalks now showing the rich reds and yellows of the fall die back.  I look for the family of river otters that hunted here last winter but find only a diminutive raft of ducks. The pond gives a taste of beauty as we head into the deep woods with its promise of more.

Shafts of sun work their way to the mossy floor of this old growth spruce forest. Some acts as spot lights for dying devil’s club leaves,  yellow and drooping as their strength drains into the mother plant’s roots.  Another light bolt shines through a spindly spruce, undercut roots allowing it to fall toward the rain swollen creek. Sun also reveals fresh tracks of a male deer recently moving to shelter along this muddy trail.

The trip tries Aki’s patience. She wants to rush ahead but must stop often for me to make vain attempts to record this miracle of water and light. It fools the camera and its user so I turn it off and stand in a shaft of sun turning the simple forest moss into a yellow-green wonder that strains my eyes with saturated light.  After over indulging, I close my eyes, listen to the stream, feel the sun warm my face, and imagine winter with its icy silence and the simplicity delivered by six inches of snow.

Ending Their Lives in Beauty

 

If not born in this rain forest, Aki has spent most of her life in it.  Nose to ground, tail wagging, she charges up this sodden trail into wind blown rain. I follow, enjoying her enthusiastic display and the new shapes being revealed by dropping leaves.

We climb from Chicken Ridge to the Basin Road Trestle Bridge and then along the steep side of Gold Creek canyon, toward the old glory hole in Perseverance Basin.  On Monday reconstruction work will close the bridge and trail until mid-winter. This is our last chance to catch the fall here.

Deciduous trees, like the muscular Balsam Popular reclaimed this land so recently destroyed by hydraulic mining.  Now bare of leaves, the exposed popular limbs mimic arm flexing muscle builders. Benefiting from the pioneering work of their leafy cousins, spruce and hemlock grow on the hill sides, forcing their roots into cracks between small boulders and bedrock.

On this wet grey day the evergreens provide a monochromatic background for  plants making a weak attempt at displaying fall colors.  Nameless waterfalls, fully charged by rain break over the lip of surrounding ridges to drop hundreds of feet into the forest below.

We follow a seldom used path, now carpeted with rotting leaves to where Gold Creek threatens to wash away the forest ground. Here a shrubby maple grows between two large poplars. Yellow with cranberry red streaking, the maple leaves display great beauty at the end of their life. Sunshine would reveal some of their beauty but it would not rival that escaping through the lens of rain coating each leaf and from a prism drop hanging from this now naked leaf stem.    

I wish Gussie Fink-Nottle was here

I wish Gussie Fink-Nottle was here in this rainy swamp. We need a newt expert. Somewhere in this flooded grass land the rough-skinned newt lurks, skin charged with toxin (watch out Aki).  None lay exposed to the rain that rapidly soaks my coat and cap. I haven’t a clue how to flush one out.

My brief fixation with newts started yesterday at the barber shop where I killed waiting time reading a book on our local plants and animals. There, seeded in rich soil was an article on the rough-skinned newts that thrive here at the Northern end of their range. Now I am cursing the author and P.G. Wodehouse, who planted the idea of newts in his Jeeves and Worster stories. If Fink-Nottle could find newts, so can I.

Half an hour later I leave the swamp with no pictures of newts but a greater respect for Gussie Fink-Nottle. Traveling along Eagle River toward its mouth we reach a large meadow dominated by tall grass now gone yellow dry.  No farmer would have left this hay uncut. Next spring a great collection of geese will hunt the field for seeds and fertilize what they miss with their scat. Today it provides a tan counterpoint to gray sky and the dead green of spruce islands that appear to float on this wealth of unharvested grass.

Sunlight on a Flooded Forest Floor

Even after many Alaskan winters I am still a creature that needs light. This morning the view down channel from Chicken Ridge offers little hope for sunshine. Last night’s hard rain has slowed to a depressing drizzle so we drive to a trail that presents well under wet gray skies.

Few cars share the road with us out to the trail head and none is parked there. Too bad. Their drivers are missing a mixed blue and white sky brightened by the rising sun. The trail leads through old growth forest to beach where we should receive the full benefit of the sunny morning. First we pass through a grove of alders on a trail covered with their dried fallen leaves. Aki does one of her gymnastic hand stand pees here, raising her hind quarters skyward as she makes water until her tails wags high in the air. (The picture only captures the beginning of the performance.)  

Brash bluejays and an industrious wood pecker dominate the old growth spruce forest. When we catch one of the jays resting on a partially submerged skunk cabbage leaf it flies to a nearby spruce limb and complains about our rudeness. The presence of the jay on a floating leaf is not as surprising as the shallow lake that now floods over this skunk cabbage hollow. Last night’s rain can’t explain it so I suspect beavers, who haven’t colonized this area before. Later we use transit a boardwalk trail that appears from a distance to float over a new shallow lake dominated by spreading skunk cabbage leaves. 

Light flooding from open beach into the forest draws out into the open where we find blue skies and sunlit clouds but only one gull that stands atop an off shore rock. In winter hundreds of waterfowl and gulls shelter here. Other times we spot seals or whales just offshore. Today we leave all this open beauty to the sentry gull and return to the forest and a trail that meanders along the airy strip of trees that bordering forest and beach. 

(As I finishing writing, a bald eagle slowly flies above our neighbor’s house. From here it appears to arc over the computer monitor.)