Category Archives: Dan Branch

Shooting Stars

P1010157Magenta is losing it’s mountain meadow monopoly. Already, bog rosemary and the other pink hued mountain flowers go to seed. That’s why the shooting stars are a surprised find. I spotted them earlier on rich beach-side meadows where they formed large islands of magenta in a sea of grass seldom disturbed except by foraging bears. I once brought home from such meadow, an intact shooting star plant in a clump of meadow dug loose by a hungry bear.

P1010161Along this mountain trail, the shooting stars have spread themselves out so they dot rather than dominate their sections of the meadow. Long but thin stalks allow the flowers to dip and rise on the wind, always pointing down, their inverted petals form bowls that catch today’s soft rain.P1010151

Eagle Crest Road

 

P1010143Aki and I walked with pride up the steep mountain road on a hot, sunny day. The little dog should be proud of the way she kept pace with a well conditioned husky dog on his way to the mountain ridge. I was smug at being able to climb at speed without having to take deep breaths. I don’t know about Aki but my pride dissipated when we passed a half a dozen young women escorting a day class down the road. Almost all of the women pushed a child laden jogger cart. One lady, with a baby strapped to her chest, pushed twins in a cart. It aged me 5 years.

P1010136We were alone on the mountain after the day care class passed—-at least we didn’t run into any other people or dogs. There were robins and blue jays uninterested in yielding to the little dog. A marmot sang out warning to her children, not the shrill air raid siren whistle the oversized guinea pigs usually sound just before an eagle flies over the nest. This was a sweet song, a gentle warning that one might give well behaved children, more to impress the neighbors than to scare the off spring into action. I thought about approaching closer just to hear it again.

P1010145We pass muskeg ponds made opaque by fallen spruce pollen. They add a new color, a pale golden yellow, to the forest. Above one pond a cloud of pollen lifts from a stand of spruce and grows to partly obscure the trees. It pulses, as if its bellows blew the pollen from the cones. It’s beauty has a price—congestion and stinging eyes. On the way down the mountain we smell the resin of sun-heated spruce and the complex perfume of flowering skunk cabbage. The perfume smells nothing like cabbage or skunks, more like lilac but with a sharp, acidic twist.P1010128

Walking Through Ruins

P1140288The rain’s back. We walk with the old friend through the Treadwell ruins. Since the mine collapsed almost a century ago, nature had been trying to reclaim the once bustling townsite. When it could no longer produce wealth, the mine owners abandoned it and, I think, its workforce. Large buildings, a baseball field, swimming pool and other comfort providing things were left to the mercy of alders and willows.

P1140291Aki and I find an ore car in the deep woods, still standing on the rails once used it move it in and out of the mine. Ground plants have already claimed most of the track but the car stands ready to report for duty where miners left it after seawater flooded out the mine tunnels. Nature would reclaim our Chicken Ridge Neighborhood in a generation if we let the Taku winds blister away house paint and moss destroy our roofs. Maybe we should have built our shelters with the industrial bones left by our ancestors in Treadwell.P1140293

Wet Boots

P1010110Today’s light rain has chased away everyone from the rainforest trail but Aki, my adult daughter and me. We find the forest green, its foliage still intact, yet to be wounded by hungry insects, deer, and bears. The broadleaf skunk cabbage plants are still spring supple. P1010093At the forest edge, Aki looks for someone to throw her frisbee so she can chase after it down the beach.She has to settle for the daughter skipping rocks over salt water. We walk out a spit of land that will disappear under an incoming tide to where good flat rocks are plentiful. The path is still two feet above water so I don’t worry about whether the tide is ebb or flood. Aki wades chest deep to better watch the rocks skip five, six, sometimes ten times before sinking. I watch too and remember how I watched her skip rocks on beaches here and in Ketchikan for more than 20 summers. Distracted, I don’t notice the tide cover our escape route until it maroons us. We have to wade through ankle deep water to reach dry land.P1010097

Diminished by Drought

P1010056Two days of flat, grey light has diminished some of the joy of walking with Aki across this mountain meadow. Thoughts of a woman lost while hiking on a cross channel mountain doesn’t help. Not even the explosion of pink and magenta wildflowers (bog rosemary and dwarf rhododendron) lifts my spirits for the muskeg meadow they grow in is in drought. Ponds, where the reflections of mountains and British buckbean flowers can be broken by skittering water bugs are now dry. I can walk anywhere without soaking my boots.

Aki takes advantage of the freedom to roam from dried pond to dried pond, then rolls on her back on the meadow. The look of bliss on her furry grey face lifts my mood.

P1010068We walk down to where the trail crosses a diminished Fish Creek and turn back to the car. As the creek noise fades, I start to hear thrush song and here and there a robin making the most out of this summer day. We pass an odd pair—one purple violet and a yellow skunk cabbage flower—standing side by side, but a discrete distance apart. They could be strangers waiting for a bus or new kids killing time before school orientation begins.P1010065

Gentle Woods, Fast Water

P1010008Walking along the gentle woods that border Mendenhall River, I let myself day dream about a harlequin duck I watched yesterday as it floated on a back eddy of Gold Creek. It was a male with powder blue beak and bold slashes of slate blue and chestnut brown feathers on face and body. The duck could not hear me or my little dog over the noise of the swollen creek. So I stood, like a well hidden spy and watched the duck, so far away from the salt water where his kind feed. Was he trapped in this deep creek valley, unable to find a safe flight path out? Was he an angry teenager runaway or a daredevil taking a break from a dangerous whitewater descent? I wanted to wait for the duck’s next move until Aki showed impatient with every muscle of her 9 pound body.

P1010005This morning an alert Aki patrols ahead then strikes a guard dog pose next to a trailside clump of devil’s club. Each branch of the thorny plant holds a chalice of spring-green leaves too porous to capture the morning sun.P1000993

Back to the Land of Beavers

P1000958It’s good to be back in Alaska, reunited with Aki after a trip to Washington D.C. and the UK. Taking advantage of jet lag, I take the little dog on an early morning walk over the moraine to the troll woods. It rained most of the night but now sun enriches the green of newly unfurled poplar leaves, which perfume the air with their balsam.

P1000927We are here before the daily startup of Juneau’s industrial tourism machines so no helicopters fly. No buses roar along the edge of the moraine. Only thrush song brakes the silence until reach a lake owned by two beavers. Aki, who fell through the ice covering this lake during an ill advised attempt to visit them one spring, whines as she watches a beaver approach. The beaver spots her and then slowly swims toward the little dog. I watch for several minutes as the beaver swims to within 40 feet, slaps the water with its tail, then continues its approach. It tail slaps the water again when much closer and then disappears.

Barbican Tube Station (Thunderstorm)

Barbican Tube Station (Thunderstorm)On the way back to the car I think about our visit to London, a place yet undiscovered by beavers, where we rarely heard the local language spoken on its streets. While walking from the Seven Dials to Tottenham Court Road tube station, we heard stories told in French, jokes in Italian, and children chastised in Russian. German bounced off the tube station tiles to mix with Swedish and Spanish. Back in Stratford, where we stayed, we only heard when the birth languages of its immigrant population. Pedestrians kept to the right of oncoming traffic like Europeans, not left like Britons. Where, I wondered we’re the English. We found them in Hastings, where words on sandwich boards advertised Devon cream teas or fish chips, and tourist questions were answered in the Queen’s English.

 

 

 

 

Sirocco

P1000456We have sun today in Juneau and warm temperatures but also wind. A sirocco blew allow our plant starts out of the greenhouse and drives me into sheltered places. This afternoon, Aki and I walk through the trees of Treadwell that grow over the ruins of the old mining town of the same name. The woods look different in sunshine, almost bleak, compared to the moist lush greenness of rainy days. Now it is a place where drama comes in the form of shadows thrown by bare trees and the intense yellow-green of skunk cabbage blossoms.

It’s low tide on the bordering beach so we’d have to cross a fair bit of fine sand to reach the water. Aki acts like passing over it would as hard as crossing the Lawrence’s Devil’s Anvil. I agree and follow her back into the woods. P1000460

Rich in Beauty

 

L1220767Back with Aki in Juneau, we take the trail to Nugget Falls because it is convenient to the store that sells the dry roasted almonds—not because from the trail you can catch the reflection of glacier and sharp edged mountains in the thawed edges of Mendenhall Lake. We didn’t pick it because of the mountain goats–with their shaggy white coats—that munch on emerging growth on the rock walls above the falls. We didn’t even consider the falls the attraction even though thy plunge down a granite wall with roar that discourages conversation. We chose the trail for it proximity to shopping and because nothing along the trail grows tall enough to block the sun that warms Aki’s grey fur and softens the remaining lake ice like spring sun should do at the end of April.

L1220785While Aki chases after her orange frisbee I watch a mountain goat search a bare rock face for food. Like a child trying to steal candy secreted on a tall shelf, the goat rocks onto the tips of his rear cloven hooves and stretches out for soft spring growth that is almost out of reach.L1220790

The Ospreys

P1140107April 24

Last evening wind-created fog obscured our view of the headlands to the the north. All day heavy rain had eroded tracks into the sides of soft-soiled cliffs had stopped by then but a strong southerly wind soaked my pants in seconds. A small clutch of crows hunkered on the beach looking for food. All night the wind blew hard, knocking moisture from surrounding spruce trees onto yurt where we slept. I prayed that the storm would blow itself out. This morning, the wind still blows but at a manageable speed and there is sun. An osprey hovers down beach and them floats toward me. Built for soaring, it lets the wind carry it, shifting a wing or tail feather now and then to stay on course. Beyond the breakers, a quarter section of rainbow strengthens then disappears when a new wall of storm clouds blocks the sun. Later we return to the beach and find a gull trying to pull flesh from a cormorant carcass. P1130999His efforts draw a crowd–8 turkey vultures and a bald eagle that swoops low over the body and then pulls skyward over the surf. One vulture, its red, naked head catching some morning light, worries the cormorant bones for a minute and then leaves it for the lone gull. In the afternoon we learn that the cormorant is one of several that have died recently. No one knows why, I wonder if the birds ate some of the plastic bits scattered on the beach like holiday confetti by the flood tide. Never having seen the gaudy decorations on the beach before I wonder if they are the Japanese Tsunami debris, made small by currents and storms that delivered it to this Oregon Beach. Later, on another beach, we read a sign asking people to help collect Tsunami plastic items that gather on the sand.

P1140049 April 28 Portland I was not surprised by osprey that flew over me at Beverly Beach, a place rich in silence and food for raptors. But in the city, in Portland, it seemed so out of place. True, we were riding on along side train tracks that bordered along a reedy lake. True, we stopped hearing city sounds a few minutes before, blocked by an island in the Willamette River. The bird didn’t care if he was expected. We stopped and watched it hover and then dive. Concentric rings expanded from the spot where its talons touched the water but missed the prey. Three rings dotted the lake waters until, on the fourth try, the osprey secured a meal. Like mountain lions, coyotes, and Juneau’s black bears, ospreys hunt in wild urban places.P1140057