Category Archives: Dan Branch

Nothing Makes Sense

golub

Deep in what the calendar names winter, I walk without grippers on a trail normally treacherous with ice. (New England, please return our snow). Aki digs and sniffs along the trail’s edges where spring like conditions have released odors recently hidden under snow. We will never walk in the sun today but it shoots its rays on the wheat colored meadow across the river and along the entire Chilkat Mountain Range to the west. The trail leads to one of Juneau’s few sandy beaches where today gulls feed in the shallows, sometimes crossing over the white reflection of a beautiful mountain with the ugly name of Mt. Golub. Anywhere in the lower 48, people would brag about having the pyramid shaped peak in their backyard. Here, only the climbers mention it.

beach

On the large tidal meadow we cross after turning away from Mr. Golub, I almost step in bear scat: pale grey stuff shot through with pieces of dried grass. Somebody must be up and about to see if it really is spring. Later we find a collection of frozen sundews, open jaws filled with snow melt. Still later, three feet up a trailside spruce a red squirrel appears to wait for Aki. My little dog ignores the squirrel until it chatters a challenge. When Aki dashes over the squirrel climbs onto the stub of a branch and just stares us down. Nothing today, is as it should be.

squirrel

Sheens of Beauty

Auk 1

This afternoon, as the rain stopped, Aki and I meandered around the University’s Auk Lake campus. It is quiet. All the action takes place in the library. We carry out the usual division of labor. Aki pees, and sniffs messages left by other dogs or greets the odd student on a study break. I take pictures, mostly of the eyes carved in totem poles.

Auk When the marine layer breaks open to reveal the blue sky that I had lost hope of seeing again, we head down to the lake and find thin sheens of petroleum mimicking the northern lights. This faux aurora borealis doesn’t dance like the sky bound one until Aki walks onto a floating dock and sets off surface ripples with every step. I snap away at the lake reflections of black spruce, blue sky, and magenta and green oil sheen. Each reflection would be beautiful in cloud whites, blues and blacks but is made more stunning by the shimmering pollutants. I’ve been here before: admiring California sunsets enhanced by smog, Canadian sunrises with deep reds popping against black forest fire smoke. Each time I wonder how corruption can produce fallouts of such beauty.

eye

Closing the Tidal Door

daf

The golden retriever wants to continue down the thin strip of gravel that momentarily links Douglas Island with Shaman. With our access to tide tables, the retriever’s owner and I know that the tide turned a half and hour ago. We can see that the waves hitting from both sides of the path are about to meet to swamp the trail and close the road to Shaman Island until the next minus tide. The old dog would push on after the trail floods, perhaps because she doesn’t remember how winter water chills after it soaks her fine, long hair. Aki, who only swims when caught unawares by a beach drop off, stands content at my side. When the retriever returns we walk across the exposed beach, happy that for the moment that rain had stopped and we can see a blue strip of glacier framed in Payne’s gray and spruce green.

glacier

Aki and the Porcupine, Again

burls

Aki is a lover, not a fighter; otherwise, I would be pulling porcupine quills from her muzzle. She found the porcupine, a silverback, after we passed through an old growth forest with burl-deformed spruce trees. One was swollen by a burl the size of a small boulder near its base as if a women in her 40th week. Dozens of burls colonized another spruce before it died. Now it stands in a forest opening like a PSA billboard for safe sex. I don’t know why so many burls deform these trees or even what causes them to form. I can guess why Aki charged down the trail, broke into the woods, and sniffed the noise of the porcupine while she wagged her tail. She sees every creature as a future playmate. I am just thankful that she sniffs, not bites at the porcupine. Its cousins live all around us.

Porky

Climate Change Questions

glacier

Climate Change Questions.

Did this retreating glacier squandered all its beauty

mimicking

an aquamarine serpent

frozen between the Mendenhall Towers

as a child’s skates sliced up

lake ice reflections

of snow and rock?

 

Has it calved too many icebergs,

sloughing them into the lake

to melt in surprising warmth?

 

On these too common days of winter rain

and autumn storms

can the glacier and its consorts

be more than

a metaphor for loss?

Connections

wings

In heavy rain, Aki and hide out on a trail through the old growth that leads to a beach diminished by high tide. A thick, low cloud layer almost eliminates the view of Lynn Canal. It is a good day to study small wonders, like tree lichen, so I watch stands of old man’s beard swing like lazy ghosts from bare blue berry brush. I happen on columns of frilly angel wings that climb the trunk of a dying hemlock tree and named then “angels of death.” (It is not an uplifting day). Then I realize that last week I had found one of the winged lichen, moist and flattened in a clump of seaweed. I took it for some tide pool creature but with the help of a passing hiker worked out that it was once attached to a tree. What is it about making connections, even unintended, that can brighten a gray day of rain?lichen

River Annex

fog

I can tell no one has walked this moraine trail for a while. My boot cleats are the first to chip the trail’s hard, slick ice. My admiration for the effective cleats is exceeded only by a fear that the worn rubber strapping will snap. After side slipping a couple of times Aki now travels on the trail margin where the ice tapers onto bare ground or snow. Smart dog. Mt. Fog blocked all mountain views when we entered to the moraine but is melting away into the spruce covered hills. Through breaks in the trailside alders I can see Mt. McGinnis, its snowy outline barely contrasting with the white sky. We are heading to a frozen mud bar on the Mendenhall River that offers an unencumbered view of the mountain.

lodge

With the white sky, flat light and narrow variation in hue, the scene is a disappointment. But, when I follow Aki down the mud bar we find a beaver lodge, its three entrances open and apparently unprotected. My little dog sniffs around a bit and pees the beavers a greeting. I can’t see evidence of that a predator tried to dig its way into the lodge but the paths up to the entrances look well used. No wonder the moraine beaver population seems to be expanding. Aki and I pass the beaver’s current logging plot on the way back to the car and are startled by two splashes made by the day crew.

 

logging

Perceptions

pond

I am not sure why I brought Aki to this mountain meadow. Bare of snow, scoured by storm, the meadow offers little reason for us to lean into the wind. While Aki works her way back to the car, I spot a clue as to what drew me here in one of the little ponds that dots the muskeg. An inch of water covers the pond’s opaque-white ice covering. Dead, tan-colored lily pads have spaced themselves evenly over the surface. Between the pads, I can make out the reflection of avalanche chutes on the ridge bordering the meadow. The ice reflection displays a beauty I can’t find on the ridge.

ridge

Before driving here, I read that Plato thought our senses limited our ability to accurately perceive actual objects (he called them universals). Above the pond, the “universal” looks as fuzzy as one of Plato’s metaphoric shadows. The reflection is almost as crisp as the ridge would look on sunny day. My camera can’t capture it as well as my eyes. I know Plato would point out that while I might prefer the reflected image of the ridge, I do not gain a better understanding of the ideal ridge by studying it. (How does he know?) But, the two, conflicting images of the same ridge support his theory. Plato views might be logical, but why should we embrace a philosophy that doesn’t allow for magic like that reflected in the pond. I agree with Aristotle. Nothing is served by Plato’s effort to distinguish between the world of ideas and the world of things.pond 2

What did they Talk About?

Aki

Only Aki and I walk among the Treadwell ruins today. The forest of cottonwoods and alders that overgrow the ruins provide scant protection from rain that has already wiped out the snow cover. Only thin skins of ice over drains survive the deluge, each holding little shinny bubbles that looked to have captured winter sunlight. Unless the temperature drops they will be gone soon.

iceWithout beauty to distract me, I think about the women who lived above ground here while their men pushed their mining tunnels further under Gastineau Channel. What did they think of days like this that would have been made more miserable for them by the nonstop “boom, boom, boom” of the ore stamp mills. At night, what did they talk about with their husbands or sons? How could they come up with stories worth the effort of telling over the stamp mill noise?

ruinsI climb up from sea level, surprised to find my boots sinking deep into the water soaked, formerly firm gravel trail. Turning left, I head for the Glory Hole overlook where we can watch the storm move up channel. Aki doesn’t follow but waits where the trail forks toward the car. Even she finds little reason today to stay in this monochromatic world being washed clean by rain.

Heard but not Seen

ice

With the tide out at Outer Point, the table is set for the birds and other animals that harvest tidal zone. We should see eagles, ravens and maybe mink or otter. We hear the whooshing pulse of a raven’s wings over our heads, cheeping song of feeding chickadees, a sea lion’s snort than splash, a loud crash from the woods as if made by a panicked deer, and eagle complaints. We almost step on the remains of an otter’s sea urchin dinner and spot the sea lion before it dives. Aki and I watch one adult bald eagle arc around us as it heads down beach.   But otherwise, this is day to listen to learn until an approaching storm drowns out the lessons with heavy rain.

eagle