Category Archives: Dan Branch

The Scent of Death

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Several few days ago, a dog walker died on the trail Aki and I take to the beach. Another hiker found the body but couldn’t approach because the man’s German shepherd protected his body. The news story didn’t report the exact location, just that a woman found the body on the trail near the tree line. I don’t need to know anything else about the death other than it took place on a beach that he probably loved as much as I.

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He might have died in the sun but today the beach is wet, windy, and chilling. Gulls watch, without much apparent interest, a raft of mergansers, golden eyes, and mallard floating just offshore. The head of every duck is jammed into the water so I figure they are on top of a big ball of feed. Aki scampers close the tree line and takes the first trail offered that leads away into the old growth. Is she cold or wanting to escape a place where her sensitive nose can still catch the scent of death?

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Eagles but No Rainbow

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I didn’t expect much from this walk on the Auk Beach except a clean trail surface. During the drive through Juneau on rainy streets under flat gray skies, I mentally rejected other trails because the little dog was sure to muddy up her just-bathed body on them. The clouds break as I park the car at the trailhead. Rain still falls but we are squinting into bright sunlight. It backlights the small raft of harlequin ducks that we see here on every visit.

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Down the beach a single Pacific loon hunts bait fish. I expect a rainbow at this “devil beating his wife” moment of rain and sun but none appears. Instead a cloud of eagles forms over bait balls just off shore. The big birds drive off the immature birds and then dive with talons extended toward the water. Aki, who once evaded a diving eagle on this same beach, ignores the big birds. I am not worried. The eagles are too intent on fish to even notice a little poodle-mix nosing something washed up by last night’s tide.

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Early Spring

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Aki makes a half-hearted attempt to slide her face along a thin patch of snow. We have to accept it little dog. It’s early spring on the moraine. The trail is still frozen but soon will soften into sticky mud. Without snow, sunshine, or summer growth to give the moraine sparkle, he is like a movie star at home with a cold. Not something you want to see until he smiles out a flash of beauty that helps your ignore his red and dripping nose, pallid skin, and disheveled comfort clothes.

moraineIce holds all the moraine’s beauty today—the turquoise-blue glacier and the crystal-clear ice formed around fallen blades of grass and river rocks. An insistent-green clump of grass forces it way through a shrinking ice lens. Skunk cabbages will blossom soon.

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Cautious Little Dog

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Aki may be a deep file—one deep enough to remember the eagles that usually roost in the spruce trees along the lower end of the Mendenhall River. Rather than dash around the expanse of sand that I cross, she trots over the rough gravel near the tree line. When I stop to examine something, she appears briefly at my feet, then returns to the safer path along the trees.

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There are eagles but they are heard, but not seen. A scattering of gulls are spread out like shy bathers on a summer beach. They tolerate the little dog and I, as well as a single raven that follows us down the river to its mouth at Fritz Cove.

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Mother of the Bride

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It’s Valentine’s Day but Aki isn’t finding romance or even friendship on the Sheep Creek delta. I can’t figure out why we are alone. There is cloud cover but no rain or wind. The sun is a silver disk seen easily through the gray overcast. Racing the incoming tide, we walk out to the channel then take a normally flooded path around two pothole lakes. Each reflects Mount Jumbo, today looking like a mother of the bride in her cloud shawl, white top, and silver-sun tiara.

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Aki disappears into the beach grass and comes back with a tail-wagging husky dog. My little poodle-mix gives out a series of high-pitched yelps and runs tight circles in the damp beach sand. Her new friend stands, looking a little confused. But, he follows us back to the car. Aki and he pee on the same patch of grass (a symbolic act?) and part.

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Ghosts

Raven

This is not a day for visual treats. Winter beauty has melted from the rain forest. Clouds block mountain views. Wind shatters the reflective surfaces of a river diminished by the ebbing tide. Only a landing raven provides something to photograph. This doesn’t bother the little dog as she sniffs a pile of fresh wolf scat textured by snowshoe hare fur. I concentrate on the sound of the wind muscling through the old growth canopy that could be a song sung by baritone ghosts. Aki, a poodle-mix known to bark at empty places, might see the ghosts I miss but she doesn’t react to this song. Instead, she dashes ahead to a junction and stands a few feet up the Yankee Basin trail. She wants to follow the wolf into wilder woods, maybe taste snowshoe hare meat.

 

Opinionated Ravens

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Aki and I join a line of dogs and owners on the trail from Downtown Juneau to the old Perseverance mining district. At the upper end of craftsmen homes on Basin Road, we passed under a light standard occupied by two ravens. The poodle-mix and I must walk in rain but the ravens could fly in less than a minute to the snow line. Instead they hang out on their light standard, commenting in raven speak on we earthbound travelers. The sleek, black birds turn their back when I stop to listen and croak out something that sounds like, “the nerve of that guy and his little overdressed dog.”

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Breakout

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Aki and I break out of the old growth, after maneuvering the latest wind-fallen hemlock, and spot a line of sunlit gulls that shine like a string of white lights strung over dark water. Other shafts of light enrich the color of the spruce and hemlock on Shaman Island. Another makes the new snow on an Admiralty Island mountain sparkle.

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To appreciate the emotional impact of one of these rain-forest winter breakouts, imagine the sudden appearance of something joyful, say a child’s smile, during your workday. You are content with the gray nine to five life, appreciate the warmth generated by co-worker relationships and positive evaluations, until the child laughs, then flashes that smile. That how today’s sudden appearance of sun light and blue skies hits me today.

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The forecast is for more rain, clouds, and fog—a return to winter’s more subtle beauty. We will be able to appreciate the subtleties, thanks to this unexpected release of light.

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Reflections

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This afternoon’s sun shines full on Mount Juneau but not on me. Is this what the weatherman meant when he predicted party cloudy skies? I am not the only one in shade. The sun doesn’t reach a gull as it squats on one of our downtown light stands. It doesn’t shine on the raven that lands a few feet from the gull. When raven points its beak at gull, the shier bird flinches, then drops into a pre-flight crouch. Raven looks away. So does gull. Raven flies away. Gull stays.

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Puzzled, I walk onto the steamship dock and find most of the day’s beauty trapped in water between the old seaplane hanger and a gravel barge. If Florence had been located in our rain forest, its renaissance church ceilings would have been painted to look like the channel’s sky reflection. Fine ocean waves distort the mirrored texture of sunlit clouds and obscure an unexpected patch of blue sky.

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Hunkering Eagles

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No one would write a homesick song about the Eagle River meadows today. Rain, wind and current provide the only moment before the little dog and I start down an icy trail. I stop where we once watch mergansers and golden eye ducks rotate around an eddy, peer where harbor seals spy-hopped to get a better look at Aki, search the meadow where we found occupied by grumbling geese. The little dog manages to attract the negative attention of a squirrel, but, maybe made grumpy by the rain, it soon loses interest in us.

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The tide if out so we can see sand bars at the river’s mouth. Two eagles lift off the sand and fly into a nearby spruce tree. When we pass it on the way to the beach, the big birds fly over our heads and out to tide’s edge. One settles onto a driftwood perch. The other dives on him. The first eagle holds on to its perch as now the incoming tidal flow surrounds it and the other one manages to find a similar perch fifty feet away. Both ignore a third eagle’s attempt to drive them off. Surrounded by a cloud of gulls, they hunch in the rain and wait for the tide to deliver dinner.

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