Category Archives: Aki

Swamp of Misery

berryThe plan was for a quick walk through the woods on gravel paths. I wore my city coat and good wool cap. We ended up in a swamp of misery. Aki had no problem negotiating the moss-covered ground. She slipped under the tangle of bare blue berry brush and tilting, moss covered alders. I pushed through it, feeling moisture seep into my boots as I cursed my way through the mess. I should have cursed the duck hunter hunkered down on the beach across the easy path to the car. I might as well have cursed the wind for covering another part of the trail with windfalls or the coyote that left the tracks I followed into the swamp.

AkiPulling aside a stout limb I saw a blue berry, round and alone on the leafless bush except for a clinging raindrop. Should I eat the rain washed berry or leave it for wild things? I moved on, fingers innocent of berry juice. We made it out of the swamp. Moss and mud clung to my jacket and rain pants. Aki fine gray hair was moist but clean. She smelled like the forest, like she spent the morning at a cleansing spa.bear bread

Alaska Day

Bare CottonwoodsOn October 18, 1867, after purchasing the Alaska Territory from Russian, US government officials raised their flag over Fort Sitka. Government and bank employees get today off from work to celebrate. Rather than contemplating how different their lives would have been as Russian citizens, most of the freed employees are walking up the Perseverance Trail. In full sunlight we climb with them to the top of Gold Street and walk along basin road, past the old craftsmen style houses that cling to the side of Mt. Maria, and onto the trestle bridge.

AkiIt’s windy, blowing with enough power to strip the mountainside willows and cottonwoods of yellow. We follow the creek bed where yellowing leaves still stir in a wind that carries the sweet scent of cranberries ripened by last nights freeze.

ravaged leavesTired of overheard voices—a helicopter mom’s one last checkup call before walking out of cell range, good friends comparing marriages, harsh laughter, a dog’s name called in anger—I lead Aki onto a back trail. We meander along a loose connection of deer trails, otter runs, and access routes to a homeless campsite, pleased that nothing can be heard over the low roar of Good Creek except the rustle and crunch of Aki and my footfalls on crisp, downed leaves   With the canopy of cottonwoods bare, the sun sends shafts to the understory. One beautifies a clutch of dying leaves. Does nature provide northerners such things on crisp October days so we can weather the storms of early winter?trail

Fourth Anniversary

AkiFour Octobers ago I made the first post for this blog. It was on a wet October 9th. Aki and I walked up the Fish Creek Trail and found a land gone to rest after the summer salmon spawn. That is how we find the creek and its forest today. No salmon hold in the creek. No decay perfumes the air. Rain-swollen creek waters have flushed out the bodies of spawned out dogs, pinks and kings. No bears hunt for meals.

We have to step over fresh eagle scat that looks like a splat of pancake batter sloshed from a mixing bowl. I hear the cry of what might be an eagle or even an osprey. I want it to be an osprey and remember Kathleen Dean Moore advising me and others in a Skagway church to write like an osprey—-hover over the terrain of ideas and then dive for promise. Moore told us to struggle on the page with our catch. The struggle provides the reader meat. Today the forest provides a more corporal challenge.

sunlightThe wind-felled trunks of five or six old growth spruce block the trail near the turn around point. There, in past summers I cught salmon and once watched an otter rinse a meal in the stream. This late into the fall, I know of nothing that would justify the effort and risk of crawling over and under the tangle of sticky trunks and limbs. But, sunlight illuminates the path beyond the windfalls just before I turn back. It sparkles on the moist moss, turning it an electric green, backlights hanging strands of old man’s beard and the fine structure of ferns now the porcelain white of fall. Aki holds back but I begin the struggle that wins me a place on the other side of the downed trees. The sunlight disappears just after the little dog dashes under the downed trunks to my side.ferns

Not Carl’s Kind of Fog

nine mile fogOh Carl, what would you make of this Juneau Fog? The stuff obscuring Gastineau Channel didn’t come on cat feet. It manifested itself like a ghost. From Chicken Ridge, I could see the morning sun light up Douglas Island as I loaded the Black and Decker coffee maker. Fog blocked the view before I could take my first sip. Some days it outlasts the sun but today’s channel fog disappeared in an hour.Glacier

Aki and I find a slip of fog still haunting the mouth of Nine Mile Creek. It forms a line of parallel scimitars and heads toward a grove of still yellow cottonwood trees until dispersed by a puff of wind. More formidable fog patches recline like toga wearing drunks over ridges of the Chilkat Mountains. One tries to hide the glacier from view. It could hold there all night if the wind doesn’t rise.bl

Empty Chair

maplesI’m on my way to Pilipino Hall for Tai Chi class. Aki can brush my knee when she wants attention but can’t manage the parry-parry-punch so she stays home. I carry a camera because the low angled morning sun is turning even tired willow leaves into a show. I will be late to class. According to the weather service, we should be in the middle of week long stretch of rain so walking in sunlight, seeing the electric combination of light and fall color brings the kind of joy I once felt while Swedish milk chocolate melted in my mouth.

chairAt Capitol School Park I swing over to a bronze rendering of an empty chair. Members of the Juneau High School class of 1942 placed it there to commemorate the forced internment of their valedictorian and all the other Japanese Americans in Juneau. Two strands of origami cranes, their paper bodies soaked by last night’s rain, hang down the back of the chair. The cranes are a prayer for peace and longevity, the chair a protest against the unfair incarceration of loyal Americans. I wish it were a binding promise of, “never again,” and hope that it will remind the generations of children that will sled past the diminutive monument of the destructive power of fear.flowers

Looking Toward to Tipping Point

Ore HouseBetween rain showers and tides, Aki and I explore the Sheep Creek delta. From the number of loitering gulls and crows, a lot of feed still collects on the beach. The birds hold their ground as we walk out to the water. I watch the tide as they watch us, making sure we are not cut off by the quick moving flood.

deltaAki would like to run with a gang of bird dogs on the other side of the delta, but I hug the creek, wishing we didn’t have to share it with the dogs’ noisy people. They talk, yell at their dogs, blow whistles, talk some more, and ignore the reflection of fading fall color in the gray channel waters.

feathersThe yelling jerks me out of a reflection on the merits of Facebook, hating its invasive practices, loving the access it gives me to distant friends. When will I reach the tipping point? I dislike the political hate posts that appear unsolicited on my newsfeed; hate each ad that demonstrates how much the Facebook folk know about my internet search history. It will only get worse. When it does, I’m off the platform.

 

Time to Get in the Game

rain on lakeWe drive to one of the access points to the Mendenhall wetlands but don’t stop because pickup trucks fill almost all the parking spaces. Guys with guns must be hunting ducks along the trail. We head over to the Auk Lake Trail where we won’t hear explosions or see plummeting birds.

trailVolunteers using government money civilized this old lake muddy trail, packing gravel between straight spruce trees that stand like the two lines of a minuet. Aki trots down the trail as if being honored by soldiers holding drawn sabers over her head.

AkiIt rains hard enough to pockmark the lake but we have some protection in the trees. Enough wet gets through to charge a small stream. The watercourse passes under the trail through a culvert and emerges as a miniature waterfall. While Aki chases her orange Frisbee, I set a chunk of granite under the outfall. In season, birds might fan their wings in spray that bounces from the rock. In time, if nothing shifts the stone or clogs the culvert, the stream might turn rock into a bowl. After six decades of watching, I want to get in the game.

Salmon Near the Heart of Darkness

Nugget MountainTwo battered silver salmon maintain station in a Switzer Creek eddy. I can see a child’s slide that the fish had to swim past to reach their holding water. The head of one fish is white with scars but neither move with the lethargy of spawned-out salmon. I’m thinking that they took a wrong turn out in the Gulf of Alaska or spent too long at a herring feed. For whatever reason they missed the procreation party. Nature won’t allow them to spend another year fattening up in salt water so they are doomed to hunker until death in an ice covered hole.

When Aki grows impatient we move up creek through an old growth forest, then onto the boardwalk trail across Switzer Meadow. Black slime makes the submerged boards too slick for my boots and I almost fall several times before we can reach an old corduroy road paved with fallen tree trunks. They must not be chasing eagles away from the nearby dump because none of the big birds perch in the spruce lining the meadow.

We hear city noise in the hillside forest: the city bus shifting gears as it heads to Lemon Creek State Prison, heavy equipment moving gravel, the beep-beep-beep of a truck full of televisions backing up to the Walmart loading dock. Except for the forest and the neighborhood of middle class houses drained by Switzer Creek, all the land we could easily reach by foot is zoned commercial. We drop down into a small creek’s drainage and find a place where kids could camp during the summer. With the stream noise blocking that made in our industrial area they could pretend they were in the heart of darkness.

Just past the campsite we enter the true dark heart of forest recovering from a 1930’s clearcut. Nothing grows beneath uniformly thin spruce. Their roots, thin and crooked as a witch’s fingers, reach across the trail. Someone has marked the way out with pink florescent tape. We follow it back to the older forest and find the two salmon still hanging out, still looking for the party.

Cosmic Imbalance

Dredge LakeAki dances around as I prepare for this afternoon’s expedition. God blessed her and all dogs with a weak short-term memory. She seems to have forgotten yesterday’s windy walk through the woods.

Soft, sparse rain falls as we walk onto the moraine. A fog ghost rises from a grove of yellow leafed cottonwoods and climbs up the spruce green wall of Thunder Mountain. Recent weather has put me in an Old Testament kind of mood so I pretend that the rising white form proves cosmic acceptance of our sacrifice during the just ended wet summer. (Juneau set a seasonal record for rainfall). But I know better.

Years in Alaska have taught me that bad weather never guarantees future stretches of good. Last summer’s monsoon season didn’t produce any cosmic credit that we can cash for a dump of snow followed by weeks of winter sun. I also know that a good stretch of summer sunshine creates a debit that can only be paid while wearing rain gear or arctic gear to block the icy Taku winds.

Aki at Beaver work site   Aki doesn’t worry about cosmic imbalance or even the rain. She bounds around the moraine playing with a heard of water dogs that gallop up to her with wagging tails and goofy grins. I urge her to let them go and move on to the shore of Moose Lake so I can enjoy the reflection of the blue iced glacier underlined with a jagged line of yellow cottonwoods. We reach it just in time for a few quick photographs of the ice reflected in gently dimpled lake. Then, a deluge destroys the reflective power of the water. I wonder why this won’t earn us any points. Moose Lake