Mud frozen to a clean walking surface, dog sign, full sun, ice-lined river—these things drew me to this open stretch of wetlands. The openness scented with dog scat and pee keeps Aki happy. She dashes over the flatness until stopped by smells left by previous canine users of the trail.

Airplane noise, construction cranes and cell phone towers photo-bombing pictures of glacial mountains, airport light standards, subzero wind chill—these are today’s negatives. I ignore them all for a chance to watch the sun break over the Douglas Island’s mountain spine.