Monthly Archives: December 2013

Burdened Trees and Milky Water

P1120726While it rained on Chicken Ridge last night, it snowed hard a few miles away on North Douglas Island. I had to clear a foot of fresh white from the trailhead trash can before depositing Aki’s bag of scat. My boots sunk through deep snow with every step until we reached the shelter of old growth spruce. The limbs of the big trees bent almost straight down under a load of new snow. Such sacrifices provide comfortable passage for our Sitka black tail deer. Today they made it possible for Aki to dash around the forest floor, tail up, ears rising and falling with each leap. Her fun ended when one tree released its load, sending a white shower across the trail. It sounded like an express train passing through a subway station. After, I almost expected a sigh, like I would emit after being freed from a heavy burden. P1120748

Walking through a forest of trees accumulating then releasing their snow burdens we made it to the sea where the high tide pushed a thick strip of cream colored water onto the beach. I considered and rejected many fanciful explanations for this snow white water—surplus milk dumping, silly practical joke, environmental disaster. The answer was simply a matter of timing. Last night’s storm struck at low tide, allowing a great amount of snow to accumulated over exposed tide pools, gravel and sand. The morning’s flood lifted off the snow, then churned it with wave and swell until the near-beach water turned an opaque white. P1120752

I’ve seen water off Southeast beaches yellowed with cedar pollen or herring spawn and darkened by the red tide. Until this morning, it never mimicked  something from a cow. P1120759

Dying Blind

P1120703Thanks to the tilting earth

one season frames another,

snow collects on fallen leaves

until yielding to the crocus.

During rain forest winters

fickle winds cover and lay bare,

build ice frames for thickening water.

When death arrives in the rain forest

does he take beauty,

the memory of ice forming on stream rocks,

to where the living may not follow?

Neither man nor raven can answer.  We rely on faith and

revelations from a dying man’s eyes. P1120707

 

Returning Home for Christmas

L1190933Aki can’t see geese clustered on a shrinking sandbar. I spot them as the 12:57 jet from Seattle enters final approach to Juneau. It carries kids returning home from colleges in the Lower 48. (That’s how we refer to mainland America.) Few of our students attend the small college in Juneau so almost all will disembark through the airport this month.  Soon it will fill several times a day with parents, relatives, and friends of the returnees. Like these sandbar geese, they will huddle together cackling, watching, and showing affection.

The geese disburse as a flood tide covers the bar, swimming away in different directions to make their living, Now I’m thinking, with a little sadness, of January, when the human tide of college kids will ebb south.

The Give and Take of Tides

P1120718It’s 1530 on Chicken Ridge. Now past sunset, the sky darkens from sweet crayon blue to black with the ascendancy of a slivered moon. Gray clouds turn pink, then orange, then red. Listening to Chieftains (Album 1) isn’t required to write about this sky, but I need the music to describe the walk Aki and I just finished on the Sheep Creek Delta. The rich mix of joy and sadness the boys convey with fiddle, whistle and bodhran makes a fitting soundtrack for this afternoon’s flood tide. P1120637

Arriving a few hours before the cresting of a 17 foot high tide, the little dog and I headed directly for the delta’s edge. We passed tide pools completely covered by  paper thin sheets of flexible sea ice. I could make out shapes and pebbles through the translucent covering.  In a momentarily dry channel, the tips of barnacle colonies poked through other thin ice sheets as if wrapped in frozen barbers’ capes. Layers of long frost feathers decorate their capes. I was tempted to linger, knowing that this icy beauty would be lost to the flooding tide, but prudently followed Aki toward the sea edge, checking to make sure we would not be cut off by rising water.    P1120661The larger puddles and ponds, still unfrozen, captured more light and color in their reflections of mountain and sky than could be found in the things reflected. We watched the tide smash one of these liquid mirrors, bringing movement that fragmented the reflection, leaving us with a shattered image of Sheep Mountain.

Aki started whining while I tried to focus the camera on a reflective scene. Looking behind us, I saw tide water quickly filling a channel we would have to cross to get back to the car. We made a run for it, leaving deep prints in the channel mud that filled with tidal water seconds after made. Reaching a dry high spot on the beach I looked back and watched translucent ice sheets melting on contact with the flooding sea. Any sense of loss was soon replaced by hope and the expectation that when it retreated, this new tide would leave behind more icy wonder.P1120688

Conjuring Witches, Sculptured Ice, and a Stubborn Dog

P1120604Aki and I stayed in the neighborhood this morning: swinging past the craftsmen style houses on Basin Road to the gravel road above Gold Creek, then returning on the Flume Trail. Flanked by Juneau and Maria mountains, the Gold Creek canyon and the Flume Trail are almost always in shade. They were this morning, even though full sun lit the mountains and Chicken Ridge.  Silhouetted by the sunny snow fields of Mt. Juneau, the strong, but twisted limbs of cottonwood trees reached up the canyon like conjuring witches. P1120624

Without clouds to trap ground heat, the temperature in the Gold Creek drainage dropped last night but not enough to stop the flow of creeks. Water splashing on to stream side creeks or overhanging branches does freeze. Overtime it forms thick layers of opaque ice over sticks and branches. I took pictures of the resulting ice sculptures while Aki sulked along.

P1120628Halfway down the flume she threw on the brakes where a trail dropped down to Gold Creek. This offered a shortcut to home, but also to Cope Park where she can usually find a dog to play with. I walked on, drawn to where sunlight was striking the trail and icicles hanging down from the flume. Patience, she waited for me to backtrack to her. Not being Barbara Woodhouse or even the dog whisperer, I took the shortcut to the park. (I wonder if Aki is a people whisperer.)P1120627

Making a Mess of the Snow

P1130800While Aki seeks scent, I read the stories written on this meadow in snow by wind, paws, and the diminutive hooves of a fawn.  When the little dog alerted near some very fresh hare tracks. I assumed that she was provoked more by rabbity smells than the sight of the tracks. Earlier I skied over river otter tracks near their newly frozen slough. Now I find myself drawn to a trail, the width of thin belt, pounded in by tiny paws. I imagine a mice platoon, walking upright, carrying the smallest rifles, marching single file between spruce root forts. Aki, who lacks the necessary imagination to build a fantasy mice army, shows amazing patience while I stand musing. Looking over my shoulder I see our tracks, poodle and skier, and wonder at the mess we made of snow unblemished by dog or man. P1130803

 

In the Dark Looking out at the Light

P1120538The weatherman promised cold temperatures, sun, and 40 knot winds. For once he was wrong about the wind. It usually appears with the sun in December. This pleases Aki, who thinks the wind rude to blow on days with a hard frost. P1120566

Today I find the beavers rude for flooding out yet another of my favorite trails. We need this one through the old growth forest to access a beautiful North Douglas Island beach. They are using the trail as part of their new dam. Water seeping from it forms a glaciated surface on the trail that makes walking impossible without some sort of ice aids. Already water backing up behind the dam climbs the trunks of living trees. If nothing changes the trees will be soon dead. Still, I can’t get myself to dismantle the mortarless portion of the dam to stop the damage. Must remember to always wear ice cheaters on winter visits to the beach.

P1120543On the beach, a gang of gulls float close to the beach. They appear to ignore the little dog and she ignores them. (Have they reached an understanding?). We stand in shadow on the beach but can see the low angled sun strike Shaman Island, Lynn Canal, and the mountains beyond. The contrast brings out the beauty of dark and light.  A light wind rises to drive small waves onto the beach. They splash water on  rocks already iced over by yesterday’s waves, giving them a sinister beauty. Aki, discouraged by the rising wind tries to lead me into the comfortable woods. I linger, still hoping for whales. “You are probably right little dog,” I tell her, “too late for whales.”  On the drive home I see my whale, a humpback, grabbing a snack in Smuggler’s Cove. Is he topping off for the long swim to Maui or one of the non-breeders who stay the winter?

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