The State Museum in Juneau once hosted an exhibit of wonderful ceremonial masks by Yupik (eskimo) carvers.  Most represented tundra spirits. My favorite was one honoring the spirit of bubbles rising to the surface of the water. It made me think of driving a small dog team over quickly frozen ice near Bethel. The dogs pulled the sled over a mural of tea tinted ice seasoned with suspended plant strands and bubbles. On one trip we passed over a muskrat swimming under the ice to its home. This week’s hard freeze following a long thaw dotted the moraine and troll woods near Juneau with pockets of such magic.

The ice was too fragile to support Aki’s light body so we shirted each patch, passing in wonder each visual offering. At least I experienced wonder. Aki, not so much. She is the practical partner—out to avoid danger and wet feet. She doesn’t care about the concentric lines that form around the puddle edges. Each one a former boundary between ice and the still liquid surface of the puddle. She ignores the collogue of fallen leaves and still golden grass stalks trapped under the windows of ice. She does chase a small dark rodent, which scares me a bit as anything that size in these woods other than a squirrel is generally ill tempered.  Today Aki and the “prey” part in peace.

Moving past the struts of a rusted out VW Beetle rising out a newly frozen pond, we move further into the woods. The snow is still soft here making the travel harder. Soft gray light on his overcast day makes it difficult to follow the trail until we reach a well packed stretch. Relaxing I drift into that almost transcendental state awaiting those who don’t mind getting a little lost and don’t fear wild things.  Time passes then I almost jam my shin into willow arcing low over the path, which continues unaltered beneath the human barrier. We are deep in the troll woods now. I’ve been following one of the beaver’s logging roads.  They can pass unhindered beneath it. I have to step over.

I’ve been led down with rodent path before and soon have us back on a human trail but not before crossing some free flowing water courses. I pitch Aki gently over each before making my own leap. She arrives at the car with dry paws. I have wet boots.